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r THE BOSTON 




HERE AND THERE IN NEW ENGLAND 
AND CANADA. 



Lakes and Streams. 



MrF.^^SW.EETSER. 



n /, 



P RO FUSEL Y III us tr a ted. 




issued by 

Passenckr Dei'aktment P>oston & Maine Railroad. 

1889. 



• 'ill 



COPYRir.HT, 

1889. 

DANA J. FLANDERS 



RAND AVERY SUPPLY CO., BOSTON. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Lakeward Routes 13 

To Alton Bay.— A Glimpse of the Merrimac— To Wolfeborough.— Along 
the Sea. — The Great Lake. 

II. Lake Winnipesaukee 16 

The Name. — Old-Time Indian JMemoiies. — A Bundle of Facts. — The 
Steam Fleet. — Alton Bay. — Wolfeborough. — Lake Wentworth. — Copple 
Crown. — A Glimpse of Numerous Islands. — Centre Harbor. — Red Hill. — 
Moultonborough Bay. — Melvin Village. — Green's Basin. — Ossipee Park. — 
Weirs. — A Provincial Memento. — Meredith. — Lake Village. — Mount 
Belknap. 

III. Lake Winnisquam 35 

Venetian Processions. — Winter Fishing. — Laconia. 

IV. Asquam Lake 36 

Fish and Islands. — A Debated Name. — The Livermores. — Shepard Hill. — 
Whittier's Songs. — The Asquam Navy. — Squaw Cove. — Camp Chocorua. — 
Little Squam. — Minnesquam. — Peaked Hill. 

V. Lake Spofeord 41 

A Vast Spring. — Black Bass and Perch. — Howells's Dictum. — Prospect 
Hill. — The Ride from Keene. — Brattleborough. 

VI. Sunapee Lake 42 

A Girdle ol Mountains. — Lake View. — Sunapee Harbor. — A Scottish 
Minstrel. — The Islands and Shores. — An Indian Memorial. 

VII. Web.ster Lake 49 

A Lakeland Song. — The Mirror of Hills. — The Birthplace of the Great 
Expounder of the Constitution. 

VIII. Mascoma Lake 51 

Mount Tug. — The Shaker Village. — Crystal Lake. — A Brace of Healing 
springs. 



Sr 



IX. Newfound Lake 52 

Bristol. — A View in Bridgewater. — Lacustrine Localities. — Around the 
Lake.— Peaked Hill. 



CHAPTER PAGE 

X. Lake Ciiamilain 54 

The Richelieu River. — Kishing-Places. — Noble Mountain-Views. — A 
Pialtleground of Nations. — Maqnam Uay. — Hotel Champlain. — Platts- 
burg. — Ausable Chasm. — Burlington. — Split Rock. — Ticonderoga. 

XI. WlLLOUGHBY LaKE 56 

A Vermont Water-Gap. — Mount Annanance. — A Cluster of Flowers of 
the Forest. 

XII. Lake Memthremagog 59 

Newport. — Lake George, Geneva, or Loch Lomond. — The Eastern 
Townships. — Owl's Head. — Georgeville. — Magog. — Mount Orford. — 
Brome Lake. 

XIII. Lake St. John G7 

Roberval and Pointe Bleue. — The " Peribonca's" Voyages. — Down the 
Saguenay. — The Winnanish. — A Province of New France. — Lake 
Edouard. 

XIV. Connecticut Lake 69 

The Upper-Coos Route. — Second Lake. — Third Lake. — F"ourth Lake. — 
Mount Prospect. 

XV. Parmachenee Lake 70 

The Magalloway River. — Berlin l\Iills. — Mount Aziscoos. — A Carry to 
Connecticut Lake. 

XVI. The Rangeley Lakes 74 

Farmington. — Rangeley. — Indian Rock. — Cupsuptic. — Lake Mooseluc- 
maguntic. — Bald Mountain. — MoUychunkamunk Lake. — Lake Weloken- 
nebacook. — Lake Umbagog. 

XVII. Dead River and Lake Megantic , 82 

Kingfield and Eustis. — Chain of Ponds. —Spider Lake. — Lake Megantic. 
— Tim Pond. — Seven Ponds. 

XVIII. Sebago Lake , 83 

Views of the Mountains. — Andrew and Hawthorne. — The Songo River. 

— The Bay of Naples. — Long Pond. — Bridgeton. — Waterford. — 
Harrison. 

XIX. Moosehead Lake 85 

The Wilderness Sea. — Its Mountain- Walls. — The Voyage by Steamboat. 
— Kineo. — A Line of Summer Hotels. 

XX. Frontier Fishing 89 

The Miramichi and Restigouche. — The St. John River. — The .South- 
West Miramichi. — The Tobiijue River. — (Jrand Falls. — I'ldnunulston. 

— The Fish-River Lakes. — Temiscouata Lake. — Cabano Lake. — The 
Aroostook Country. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

Bird's-Eye Map of Boston & Maine Railroad .... Frontispiece. 

Autograph Poem, by John G. Whittier 12 

Prospect-Hill Station 14 

Illuminated Poem 15 

Winnipesaukee Lilies 17 

A Glimpse of Lake Winnipesaukee iS 

A Passing Shower, Lake Winnipesaukee 19 

Steamer "Mount Washington," Winnipesaukee 20 

Lake Winnipesaukee, from Long Island 21 

Mount Belknap, from "The Forties" 22 

Black Mountain, from Moultonborough Bay 23 

Windmill and Miller's House, Cow Island 24 

Mary's Arch, Ossipee-Mountain Park 25 

"The Forties," looking toward Ossipee 26 

View of Winnipesaukee, from Ossipee-Mountain Park ... 27 

Red Hill, from Moultonborough Bay 28 

The Weirs 29 

Governor's Island. — The Beaches. — A Morning Fishing- 
Excursion. — Mount Belknap from the Beaches .... 31 
Cafe and Station at Weirs. — Floating House. — Endicott 

Rock 33 

On Lake Winnipesaukee 34 

Mount Cardigan. — Chocorua yj 

Squam Lake, from Shepard Hili 38 

A Bit of Shore, Squam Lake 39 

Sunapee Harbor 42 

Sunapee Lake, from near Lake-View House 43 

A Glimpse of Sunapee Harbor 44 

Lake Sunapee 45 

A Morning's Catch 45 

Camp Comfort 46 

Scene on Lake Sunapee 47 

Webster Lake 49 

Newfound Lake 52 



8 

PAGE 

WiLLOUGHHY LaKE 56 

Steam-Yacht on Willcltciihy 57 

Map of Lake Memphremagoo 58 

Newport, Vt., on Lake Mempiiremagog 59 

Lake Memphremagog, from Prospect Hill, Newport .... 60 

Main Street, Newport, Vt 61 

Steamer on Lake Memphremagog 61 

Landing, Owl's Mead 62 

View of Owl's Head 62 

Group of Islands 63 

Near Owl's-Head Mountain 64 

Lake Memphremagog 65 

On the Magalloway River 70 

Aziscoos Falls, Magalloway River 71 

Upper Magalloway 72 

On Lake Parmachenee 73 

Views from Rangeley Lakes. — Bald Mountain. — Dead-River 

Mountains 74 

A Big Trout 715 

Bemis Stream. — We.st Kennebago Mountain, Rangeley Lakes 76 

Aziscoos Mountain, from Mooselucmaguntic 77 

Deer Mountain, Rangeley Lakes 78 

The White Mountains, from Lake Umbagog 79 

Screw-Auger Falls, Grafton Notch So 

In Dixville Notch 81 

Moosehead Lake, from Mount Kineo 85 

Mount Kineo, Moosehead Lake 86 

Big and Little Spencer Mountains. — Squaw Mountain . . 87 

Kineo, from the North. — Katahdin, from North Bay ... 88 

ToBiQUE Narrows 90 

Cantilever Bridge, St. Juhn, N.Pj 91 

Grand Falls, N.B 92 



INTRODUCTION. 



AMONG the many natural beauties of New England, its lakes and 
streams command a noble and conspicuous place. From the placid 
loveliness of the lowland ponds, environed by grassy hills and rich farm- 
lands, to the wild picturesqueness of the far northern lakes, where the weird 
cry of the loon is heard by night, and the moose and deer come down to 
drink, there is almost every variety of water-scenery, and of attractions for 
the lover of Nature and the sportsman. When the tired city-man closes his 
ledgers and desk, and reverts to thoughts of the joys of younger days, he 
cheerily says : " I go a-fishing," and starts off for the grassy banks and rocky 
shores and darkling forest-pools, whence the trout and bass and pickerel 
may be drawn, flashing in the fair summer sun. There is Winnipesaukee, 
mirroring the grand blue mountains of New Hampshire ; and Moosehead, 
buried in leagues of ancient forest ; and the Rangeleys, with their camps and 
carries and woodland shades ; and Memphremagog, winding away among the 
great highlands; and broad Champlain, its silvery tide flowing between the 
Adirondacks and the Green Mountains; and Lake St. John, far away in the 
wild Northland, cooled by the breezes from Hudson's Bay. It is of these 
and a few of their comrade-lakes, — Sunapee and Spofford, Asquam and New- 
found, Sebago and Megantic, — that we would speak, telling briefly how they 
may be reached, and what may be found about them. Boating, fishing, bath- 
ing, driving, climbing, and many other forms of recreation may be enjoyed 
amid these tranquil and restful localities, at light expense, and within easy 
reach of the cities. To those who are wearied of the sea and the mountains, 
the great lake-country of Northern New England offers new and unusual 
attractions. 

The human interest of this region is hardly less than that which lends 
such fascination to similar localities in the Old World, for many years the 
goals of thousands of happy sentimental journeys. The lakes of Westmore- 
land won the love and called forth the melodious praises of Wordsworth and 
Coleridge, but our New-Hampshire mountain-tarns have equally enjoyed the 
frequent visits and inspired the poems of Whittier and Longfellow, in no- 
wise less admirable. For Virgil and the Lake Maggiore we may offer Haw- 
thorne and Sebago Lake; for William Tell and fair Lucerne, we have Daniel 
Webster in the beloved lake-region of New Hampshire. Lowell, Thoreau, 
Everett, IJartol, Starr King, Winthrop, and otiier foremost leaders of Amer- 



ican thought and action, have found here abundant themes for study and 
inspiration. 

A great variety of accommodations is offered to the summer-voyager, 
from luxurious and costly hotels to comfortable old farmhouses, nestling 
about the quiet bays. Steamboats of all degrees traverse the clear waters, — 
the great vessels of Winnipesaukee and Champlain, and the steam-launches 
and excursion-boats of the minor lakes. There are all sorts of craft for 
rowing and sailing, and the quaint horse-boats of Winnipesaukee, and the 
house-boats, built on the model of the family-arks of the upper Thames and 
the Norfolk Broads. Farther into the wilderness, Indian guides may be 
found; and wild and lonely streams and lakes may be followed for days 
without the sight of a hamlet, or even of a pioneer farm. 

The present little volume is one of the three companion-books issued by 
the Passenger Department of the Boston & Maine Railroad, under the 
general title of " Here and There in New England and Canada." 
This work is naturally divided into " All Along Shore," treating of the 
beaches and islands; "Among the Mountains," dealing with the high- 
lands of New England, from Mount Ilolyoke, Wachusett, and Monadnock, 
to the White and Franconia Mountains and Dixville Notch; and "Lakes 
and Streams," devoted to a consideration of the beautiful inland waters of 
New Hampshire, Vermont, and Maine, and especially to Winnipesaukee, 
Sunapee, Moosehead, the Rangeleys, Memphremagog, and the far-away Lake 
St. John, in Northern Canada. Richly bound and handsomely illustrated, 
it is hoped that these books may be of service both to actual travellers and 
to people who are planning for a summer-journey. The Boston «&: Maine 
Railroad also issues a little book devoted solely to lists of the hotels and 
boarding-houses in each of the localities on or near its route, rates of excur- 
sions and circular-trips, and the service of its parlor and sleeping cars. It is 
entitled "Boston & Maine Railroad Summer Excursions." With this 
practical helper, the cost of an eastern trip, in time and money, may be 
computed approximately. 



OFFICERS 



BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD. 



George C. Lord, President ..... 

James T. Furber, General Manager .... 
Dana J. Flanders, General Passenger and Ticket Agent 
Charles E. Lord, Assistant General Passenger and Ticket Agent 
George W. Stoker, Assistant General Passenger-Agent 



Boston. 
Boston. 
Boston. 
Boston. 
Boston. 



Charles A. Waite, Div. Passenger-Agent, Worcester, Nashua & Portland Div., Worcester. 
WiLLL\M Merritt, Superintendent Western Division .... Boston. 

D.\niel W. S.-\ni!ORN, Superintendent Eastern Division . . . Boston. 

John W. Sancorn, Superintendent Northern Division . . Wolfeboro' Junction. 

George W. Hurldurt, Superintendent Worcester, Nashua & Portland Division, Worcester. 
W. F. Simons, Superintendent Southern Division, Lowell System . . Boston. 

H. E. FoLSOM, Superintendent Passumpsic Division, Lowell System, . Lvndonville, Vt. 
G. E. Todd, Superintendent Northern-Railroad Division, Lowell System, Concord, N.H. 
Frank D. Gourley, Travelling Passenger-Agent . . . . . Boston. 



TICKET-AGENTS 






EXC 


Samuel Gray 


J. 


M. 


French 


N 


B. 


Dana 


c. 


M 


RUGGLES . 


Lancaster & Steede 


J. 


B. 


Lepire 


L. 


W 


Marden . 


A. 


H 


QUINCY 


A. 


A. 


Davis 


J. 


Clark . 


c. 


K. 


Miller 


H 


H 


. CUSHING . 


A. 


C. 


Taplev 


F. 


J. 


Clark 


A. 


V. 


Caswell . 


G. 


O. 


White 


F. 


w 


Pope 


c. 


H. 


Kinney 


F. 


Barr . 


G. 


Swain . 


A. 


Elliott 


c. 


L. 


GiLMORE . 


c. 


W 


Knowles . 


W 


T 


Perkins . 


P. 


White, Jr. 


C. 


A. 


Haseltine 


F. 


N. 


Chase 


N. 


T. 


Kimball . 


A. 


E. 


B. Floyd . 


F. 


E. 


Richardson 


A. 


M. 


Goodwin . 


W 


F. 


Fernald . 


M 


L. 


Williams . 


c. 


J- 


WiGGIN 


C. 


P. 


Waldron , 



OF THE BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD OF WHOM 
URSION-TICKETS can be OBTAINED. 

2iS Washington Street, three doors south of State Street, Boston. 

\ Station, Haymarket Square, Boston. 

( Station, Causeway Street, Boston. 

Lowell Station, Causeway Street, Boston. 

Union Station, Worcester. 

434 Main Street, Worcester. 

25 Washington Square, Worcester. 

Station, Salem. 

Station, North River, Salem. 

Station, Lynn. 

Station, South Lawrence. 

Station, North Lawrence. 

Lowell Station, North Lawrence. 

Station, Haverhill. 

Station, Central Street, Lowell. 

Station, Middlesex Street, Lowell. 

Station, Merrimac Street, Lowell. 

. Station, Clinton. 

Station, Ayer Junction. 

. Station, Nashua. 

Lowell Station, Nashua. 

Station, Manchester. 

Station, Concord. 

Station, Newburyport. 

Station, Portsmouth. 

. Station, Exeter. 

. Station, Dover. 

Station, Great Falls. 

Station, Rochester. 

Station, Salmon Falls. 

Station, Biddeford. 

Station, Saco. 

Station, Old Orchard. 

LTnion Station, Portland. 

Commercial-Street Station, Portland. 

. 40 Exchange Street, Portland. 




^ ^ ir "^ 



Fold-out 
Placeholder 



This fold-out is being digitized, and will be inserted at 

future date. 









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»3 



CHAPTER I. 



LAKEVS^ARD ROUTES. 

To Alton Bay.— A Glimpse of the Merrimac— To Wolfeborough, 
— Along the Sea. — The Great Lake. 

THERE are two points at which the great lake of Winnipesaukee is 
touched by the Boston & Maine Railroad, and all summer long the 
trains of this route are occupied by travellers on their way to the tranquu 
joys of the northern waters. 




The most ancient route, and the shortest one, is that which leads from 
Boston to Alton Bay, the southernmost extremity of the lake, by the Boston 
& Maine Railioad, now familiar to two generations of New-Englanders. 

After the hour spent in running through the Boston suburbs, and across 
Middlesex, the scholastic towers of Andover appear on the view, followed 
by the red lines of Lawrence's cotton-factories, drawn up in line of battle 
along the Merrimac. For the next seven miles the train runs a race with 
the bright blue river, following its course toward the sea, and passing many 
an ancient hamlet and colonial farmstead. 

At the pleasant old town of Bradford, famous for its long-established 
academy for girls, our line swings around on to a long, high bridge, with the 
pleasant city of Haverhill in front; and so crosses the Merrimac, looking 

" On the river, full of sunshine, 
To the lap of greenest vales, 
Winding down from wooded headlands, 
Willow-skirled, white with sails." 



14 



Beyond the streets of Haverhill, our train rolls easily over many a league 
of rural New Hampshire, past the delightful old academy-town of Exeter, 
and down to the picturesque little city of Dover, the most ancient settlement 
in the Granite State. Thence the route turns off from the great highway to 
Portland and the mysterious land of "Down East," and runs up the Cocheco 
Valley, crossing a network of railroads at Rochester. The pleasant Blue 
Hills of Strafford come into view; and the long town of Farmington is 
crossed; and so, in ninety-six miles from Boston, we reach Alton Bay, hard 
by the dock of the fine steamer Alount Washington. 

Wolfeborough is one of the chief ports and summer-resorts on Lake 
Winnipesaukee. It may be reached by the preceding route, and the steam- 
boat from Alton Bay. But the usual route is by the Eastern Division of the 
Boston & Maine Railroad, along the coast of Massachusetts and New Hamp- 
shire, and through the famous old sea-cities, — Lynn, Salem, Newburyport, and 
Portsmouth, — with many a glimpse of the blue Atlantic, and the cool salt 




marshes of Lynn and Newbury and Hampton. Beyond Portsmouth and the 
Piscataqua River, we pass through the busy villages of Salmon Falls and 
Great Falls, and across the many railroads converging at Rochester; and 
then run northward through Milton and Union, with their many bright ponds 
and graceful hills. At Wolfeborough Junction the line to North Conway 
and the "White Mountains is left, and we go down a branch railroad for 
eleven miles, and reaching Wolfeborough in loS miles from Boston. 

" Winnioesaukee's tranquil sea. 
Bosomed in hills and bright with i;,les 

Where the alder grows and the dark pine-tree. 
And the tired wind sleeps and the sunlight smiles." 



i6 




" We had been wandering for many days 
Through the rough northern country. 

We had seen 
The sunset, with its bars of purple cloud, 
Like a new heaven, shine upward from the lake 
Of Winnipesaukee ; and had felt 
The sunrise breezes, 'midst the leafy isles 
Which stoop their summer beauty to the lips 
Of the bright waters." 



LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE. 

The Name. — Old-Time Indian Memories. — A Bundle of Facts. — 
The Steam F'leet. — Alton Bay. — Wolfeborough. — Lake Went- 
woRTH. — Copple Crown. — A Glimpse of Numerous Islands. — 
Centre Harbor. — Red Hill. — Moultonborough Bay. — Melvin 
Village. — Green's Basin. — Ossipee Park. — Weirs. — A Provin- 
cial Memento. — Meredith. — Lake Village. — Mount Belknap. 



WINNIPESAUKEE is an Indian word-phrase, meaning " l>eaiitifiil 
Water in a High Place," and the scene is admiral)ly portrayed by 
this amazing polysyllabic word, which has been spelt, in old documents and 
histories, in 131 various ways. Some ancient poet, unskilled in Indian lore, 
and deeming that such a name and locality should have a romantic meaning, 
affirmed that Winnipesaukee meant "The Smile of the Great Spirit;" and 
this pleasant signification has been handed down by generations of believers, 
and may never be wholly forgotten. The celestial beauty of the lake, and 
its sunny peacefulness, give color of reason to this free translation. There 
may be more lovely lakes elsewhere in this pleasant world, but Lucerne 
could envy the islands of Winnipesaukee, and Lake George could wish for 



17 



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WINNIPESAUKEE LILIES. 



its blue mountain vistas, and Yellowstone could sigh for its sweet and tran- 
quil farm-lands. 

From time immemorial, the lake-shores were the homes of the Ossipee 
and Winnipesaukee Indians, and at the Weirs great assemblies of other 
tribes gathered, during the tishing-season. In later days, the raiding-parties 
of the French chevaliers and their red-skinned allies found this a capital 
route of attack from Canada upon the frontiers of New England, and many 
a bleeding American captive and the plunder of devastated villages were 
borne northward along these shores. As early as 1689, Provincial troops 
made hot forays into the Lake Country, for Cotton Mather had denounced 
the natives as " Scythians," difficiliiis invenire quam interficere. , Thirty-three 
years later, block-houses were built and garrisoned here, and the aborigines 




A GLIMPSE AT LAKE WINNU'ESAUKEE. 



retired before the Provincial troops. In 1746, Atkinson's New-Hampshire 
regiment lay, for a year or more, a few miles from the lake, and built a 
strong fortress at Union Bridge, on the Winnipesaukee River. Their 
scouting-parties and reconnoissanccs in the neighborhood gave them a 
great liking for this fair region; and a few years later, when the Conquest 
of Canada had made an end of Indian raids, they moved on all sides into 
the Lake Country, where their descendants now live. 

The modern taste for accurate statistics compels the statements that 
Winnipesaukee covers 70 square miles of water, in places 200 feet deep, and 
forms 267 islands, covering 8 square miles, 226 of which are of less than 10 
acres in area each. The inability of the small inflowing streams to form so 
great a lake causes scientific persons to believe that many cf)pious springs 



19 





gusli out in the cjuict depths below, preserving the crystalline purity and 
limpidity for which the-;e waters have always been renowned. The outlet is 
the Winnipesaukee River, which unites with the pure Pemigewasset flood to 
form the Merrimac, entering the sea at gray old Ncwburyport. On the south 
are Copple Crown and the bold highlands of Wolfeborough and Alton ; the 
stately Belknap peaks rise on the west, like Vesuvius from the Hay of 
Naples; the vast blue line of the Ossipee range closes in on the east; and 
to the northward, beyond Red Hill's long ridge, the imposing crests of the 
Sandwich Mountains cleave the sky. 

The two chief steamboats on the lake are the Mount Washington, plying 
twice daily between Alton Bay, Wolfeborough, Long Island, and Centre 
Harbor (thirty miles) ; and the Lady of the Lake, running from Wolfebor- 
ough to Centre Harbor and Weirs (thirty miles). Smaller vessels run from 
Lake Village to Weirs and Long Lsland, and sometimes to Meredith and 
Melvin Village. 




Wt saw in the distance the dusky hike fade, 

Empurpled with twilight's last tinges; 
And slow came the Night, with her curtains of shade, 

And the round rosy moon in their fringes. 
We marked in the sky, in the cloud-lakes on high, 

The flocks of bird dreamily sailing 
From the peaks in the west, and settle to rest 

Where tTie forest-light slowly was failing, 
Roimd bright Alton Bay." 



The little port of Alton Bay, with two or three small hotels and 
boarding-houses, lies at the head of a deep and forest-bound fiord five miles 
long, opening away from the southern end of the lake, and not far from the 
far-viewing Sheep Mountain, the Belknap Mountains, IMerry-Meeting Lake,, 
and the pleasant hill scenery of Gilmanton. There is a picturesque drive of 
eleven miles over the hills to Wolfeborough. 

As we emerge from Alton Bay's long and river-like inlet, we pass, on the 
right, the bold Fort Point, the seat of a Provincial border-castle in the old 
battle-days. The course lies to the north-east, across a broad expanse, with 



several uuiuhabited islets gemming the bright lake, and the great mountains 
of Ossipee and Sandwich towering in the distance. 

" How start to light the clustering isles, 

Each silver-hemmed ! How sharply show 
The shadows of their rocky piles 
And tree-tops in the waves below! " 

The pleasant village of Wolfeborough, at the end of a branch of the 
Northern Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad, four hours from Boston, 
and two hours from North Conway, has been a favorite summer-resort for 







MOUNT BELKNAr, FROM 

forty years, and affords accommodations for 
over a thousand guests. The view is of great 
beauty, and includes the narrow Wolfeborough Bay, 
beyond whose shining levels the peaks of the Belknap 
range rise with grand effect. The facilities for boat- 
ing, fishing, and riding are good ; and here also the 
vacation-idler may say, with Walt Whitman: — 



" I loafe and invite my soul, 

I lean and loafe at my ease, observing a spear of summer grass. 



A mile or so back of the village is the charming Lake / / 

Wentworth, four miles long, and endowed with several islands, and alnmd- 
ant store of fish. On its eastern shore stood Wentworth House, the great 
feudal mansion of John Wentworth, the last royal governor of New Hamp- 
shire, who fled from this fair domain to the British fleet at Portsmouth, 
bearing Lady Wentworth with him. The house was attacked by the patriots 
in 1775, and burned to the groimd in 1820. 

Six or seven miles from Wolfeborough is Copple Crown, whose simimit, 
reached by a mile-long path over the pastures and through the woods, 
commands a bird's-eye view of Winnipesaukee and its mountain-walls, with 




24 

Chocorua, Mount Washington, Kearsarge, the Isles of Shoals, Wachusett, 
and Monadnock. The high grassy hill called Tumble-Down Dick, about a 
mile distant, gives another interesting prospect. 

Running out from Wolfeborough Bay, after passing the landmark of 
Parker's Island, the steamer lays its course between Tuftonborough Neck, 
on the right, and Rattlesnake Island, on the left, high and bold, covering 
one hundred and fifty acres with its luxuriant forest, and containing all the 
rattlesnakes in the Lake Country. Farther on, the lonely and unvisited 




'.VIND.MILI. AND MILLER S HOUSE, COW ISLAND. 

estuary of Tuftonborough Bay opens away on the right amid rich farm-lands, 
and on the other side rises the green cone of Diamond Island, once the site 
of a hotel. 

Now we enter the Broads, the chief unbroken expanse of the lake, and 
enjoy a magnificent panorama of mountains and islands and laughing waters, 
so that the eyes and brain arc treated to a rare feast of beauty in form and 
color. 

" I saw on Winniposaiikcc fall 
The shadow of the mountain-wall." 

A few miles beyond, we pass Cow Island, of three hundred and fifty 
acres, with its windmill and ruined farmhouse, more than seventy years old. 




MARY'S ARCH, OSSIPEE-MOUNTAIN PARK. 



26 



and its remarkable red-oak tree. On the west arc the pastures of Welch 
Island, and then the i)icturesque group of the Forties, with their winding 
channels, trout ledges, lonely trees, and secluded coves, from which the most 
charming of views are gained. 

Jolly Island, of fifty-four acres, and Birch Island and its lonely cottage, 
lie to the westward from Long Island, across the channel ; and then the 
peaceful inland voyage is directed between the Six-Mile (from Centre 
Ilarljor) trio of islets and Bear Island, four miles long, once the seat of four 
thriving farms, and now partly occupied by the summer-cottage colony of 

Kunnaway, with its steamboat pier. 
i'.. Next, nestling under the western 

siwi- shore, comes Pine Island, the home 
%(i,,n of a solitary eagle. The 

ii«3NF"X"'"''n Three-Mile (from Centre 
|m W' 'v Harbor) quartette of 



.'^'.ii« 




THE FORTIES, LOOKING TOWARD 
OSSIPEE. 



islets includes Hawk's Nest and Nabby's 

Isle, hemmed by sandy beaches, and shaded 

Ijy trees. Blueberries abound here, and black 

bass haunt the surrounding ledges. The Beavers 

; come next, with their land-locked coves and seques- 

, . I : ; , tered channels ; and Black-Cat Island, in front of a romantic 

. « / cove laden with exquisite pond-lilies. 

On the right rise the singularly fertile hills of Long Island, 
with two summer-hotels. The steamboats land passengers here; and the 
hotels are about eight miles from Centre Harbor, by the causeway and 
around through M(jultonborough. Across the channel is Steamboat Island, 
where the 'first steamer on the lake, the Pelkuap, suft'ercci total wreck, 
in 1841. 

When the boat is off J-ong Island, and as she advances over the quiet 
waters toward Centre Harbor, there is a magnificent and impressive view 
of Mount Washington and several other peaks of the Presidential Range, 
rising over and far l)ack of the low ledges of Mount I'augus. At early sum- 



27 




28 

mer, or in the autumn season, the great peak is clad with snow, and flashes 
brightly through the clear northern air, more than forty miles distant. 
Presently, the rocky spire of Chocorua rounds into sight, from behind the 
nearer Ossipee Mountains, and the distant sovereign of this land of high- 
lands sinks away behind the dark crest of Mount Passaconaway, and is seen 
no more. But it leaves in the memory a glorious picture, which cannot fade 
away for years. 

And now, just ahead, nestling under the shelter of high hills, the white 
houses of Centre Harbor appear, 

" The little hamlet lying 

White in its mountain fold, 
Asleep by the lake, and dreaming 
A dieam that is never told." 




KED HII.l,, KROM MOULTONBOROUGH BAY, LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE. 

It is the least bit of a village, with a church and two or three stores, two 
hotels, a dozen summer boarding-houses, and on the environing hills several 
handsome villas of Boston and New-York families. There is a goodly 
flotilla of various kinds of boats near the Senter Mouse, by whose aid one 
(and sometimes two) may enjoy rowing and drifting down towards the 
islands, or around into Blackey's Cove. Garnet Hill and Sunset Hill over- 
look the bay, and afford charming views of many leagues over its bright and 
diversified surface, and across its mimic archipelagoes. There are many 
beautiful drives in the vicinity — to Meredith, or Moultonborough, or 
Ossipee Park, or Long Island, or Asquam Lake, or Sandwich ; and stages 
(of the fine old-fashioned kind) roll away every afternoon to Sandwich and 
West Ossipee. 

" And in the Kcd Hill's shadow, 
Your pilgrim home you make, 
Where the chambers ope to sunrise, 
The mountains, and the lake," 



29 




30 

The favorite drive at Centre Harbor leads "Around the Square," a five- 
mile circuit, with lovely views of Asquani Lake and the Sandwich range. 
The favorite mountain-trip is by carriage to the foot of Red Hill, four miles, 
and then a climb of something over a mile, through the woods, with a good 
path. The prospect from the summit is one of the most beautiful in any 
land, and includes almost the entire area of Winnipesaukee, bewitchingly 
adorned with graceful islands and promontories, golden wheat-fields, and 
miles of waving corn and rich grass-lands, — a noble expanse of blue and 
silver and green, ten leagues long. In the outspread landscape glimmer 
white hamlets, — Sandwich and South Tamworth, Melvin and Tuftonborough, 
Centre Harbor and Laconia ; and bright lakes glisten along the plains; and 
the horizon is notched by great mountains, — the Ossipees and Belknaps, 
Monadnock and Kearsarge, Moosilauke and the P'ranconias, Whiteface and 
Chocorua, and many another famous peak. 

Off on the eastern side of Winnipesaukee, the deep inlet of Moulton- 
borough Bay opens away to the bases of the Ossipee Mountains, with 
leagues of winding water-ways, overhung l)y untrodden highlands, and 
broken by scores of islets. The chief port of this sequestered water-way is 
Melvin Village, a tiny hamlet, with two churches, and several farm boarding- 
houses in the vicinity. 

" Close beside, in shade and gleam, 
Laughs and ripples Melvin stream; 
Melvin water, mountain-born, 
All fair flowers its banks adorn; 
All the woodland's voices meet, 
Mingling with its murmurs sweet. 

" Over lowlands forest-grown. 
Over waters island-strown, 
Over silver-sanded beach, 
Leaf-locked bay and misty reach, 
Melvin stream and burial-henp, 
Watch and ward the moimtains keep." — Whittier. 

High up in the bav, perhaps si.x miles from Melvin, is the narrow strait 
leading into the picturesque lake called Green's Basin, two miles by road 
from Centre Harbor. The groups of islets, and the far-projecting capes, 
make this unvisited tarn one of the most romantic places in the region, and 
there is good shooting, withal, and beneath the crystal waves a gamey 
population of black bass. At the head of the bay, outside, is the old 
Moultonborough landing, to which the steamer Red Hill used to make 
regular trips, braving the maritime dangers of willow-thickets and reefs of 
lily-pads. But one day her boilers burst, in the bay, for all the world as 
if she had been a Mississippi-River mail-packet, and since then steam- 
navigation has been suspended here. 

High up on a plateau of the Ossipee Mountains, 1233 feet above the 
sea, is the beautiful estate of Ossipee Park, pertaining to Mr. B. F. Shaw 
of Lowell, and reached by an admirable carriage-road from Centre Harbor. 
The views from this breezy height arc of vast extent and unusual beauty, 



3» 




32 

and include the wide expanse of Winnipesaukee, and scores of tall 
mountain-peaks. On the estate are the famous P'alls of Song (Ossipee 
Falls), and other notable curiosities of Nature ; and the vicinage abounds in 
legends of the Indians and the English rangers. A three-mile path leads to 
the observatory on Mount Shaw, the chief of the Ossipee Mountains (which 
cover sixty square miles) ; and from this eyrie you can gain an amazing view 
over Southern New Hampshire. 

It is an hour's voyage from Centre Harbor to Weirs, with fine views of 
the Sandwich range, and the blue Ossipees, and other mountains, and many 
pleasant islands. Weirs is the summer capital of the Lake Country, a 
large village of hotels and boarding-houses and cottages, with camp- 
meeting grounds, and the vernal cantonments of several commands of 
veteran soldiers. 

The great camp-meeting grounds, with their sheltering groves, dining- 
halls, and other appliances, have a fame that is almost national, and are 
occupied during the summer by convocations of people devoted to religious 
advancement, the temperance cause, the heroic memories of the Union- 
saving war, and other worthy causes, grangers. Good Templars, musicians, 
oarsmen. Foresters, and other fraternal men. As recently as the year 1870, 
this site was occupied only by a little wooden railway station, and all the 
development of the cottage city, even yet in its infancy, has gone forward 
since then. 

The view from Winnecoette Hill, back of Weirs, is the most pleasing 
in this vicinity, and covers leagues upon leagues of the fair lake and its 
diversified shores. A good two-mile road leads down across the outlet, and 
over a causeway, to Governor's Island, with its broad pastures and pine 
groves, and the great stone mansion of its owner, the Hon. Stilson Hutchins 
of Washington. 

On the hillside west of the outlet, near the bridge, stood the chief Indian 
village of inland New Hampshire ; and here, at the time when the shad and 
salmon coming up the river reached the lake, after the season of corn- 
planting, thousands of sea-shore Indians used to come to visit their 
mountain brethren, and enjoy the fishing in the great lake. The valley 
below is made classic by their fading legends, and the traditions of the 
fortresses that they built to check the bloody forays of the Mohawks. But 
now 

" Canoeless lies the lonesome shore, 
The wigwam's incense wreathes no more." 

In 1652, Massachusetts sent up Johnson, Willard, Ince, and John 
Sherman (ancestor of the Ohio senator) to find and mark the head of the 
Merrimac, and on the so-called Endicott Rock, above the outlet bridge, they 
carved some of their initials, and "John luidicott. Gov." This venerable 
relic of the Bay Province's assumptions remains where the adventurers 
found it, and the inscription may be read. 

Steamboats run occasionally from Weirs, up the long and narrow north- 
western bay, to Meredith Village, a manufacturing-place on the railroail. 




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34 

and five miles from Centre Harbor. Close by, hemmed in by deep woods 
and silvery beaches, and gemmed by many a pretty islet, is Lake WauKawan, 
whose cold depths are haunted by myriads of black bass. 

In the other direction, small steamboats run to Lake Village, a prosper- 
ous factory-town, almost environed by the fertile farms of Gilford. It 
extends along the shores of Lake Paugus (the ancient Long Bay), a four- 
mile expansion of the Winnipesaukee River. Seven miles distant, a path 
leaves the Alton road, and runs up over the steep pastures, for a mile and 
a half, to ihe summit of Mount Belknap, whence is outspread the noblest 
view in the I^ake Country, surpassing even that from Red Hill. It includes 
all the lake and its confines, and also the magnificent Franconia and 
Presidential ranges, and a wide reach of the ocean from Wells to Cape 
Ann. 




35 



CHAPTER III. 

LAKE WINNISQUAM. 

Venetian Processions. — Winter-Fishing. — Laconia. 

" There is power to bless 
In hillside loneliness, 

In tarns and dreary places; 
A virtue in the brook, 
A freshness in the look 

Of mountains' joyless faces." 

LAKE WINNISQUAM [winni, "beautiful," and squam, "water") is 
one of the prettiest of the great ponds in this fair region, and may 
De explored by the small steamboats running from I>aconia, or by house- 
boats towed from point to point. It is fully nine miles long, with an 
e.xtreme breadth of two miles ; and in the northerly part several tiny islets 
rise above the limpid waves. The shores are bold and well wooded, and 
fairly frame this gem of the hills. The lake is a rare bit of landscape 
beauty, and reflects from its shining surface the tender colors of the over- 
arching sky, and the graceful outlines of the rural shores. Sometimes there 
are illuminations of Winnisquam by fireworks, when the lower shores break 
into vivid pyrotechnic lights, and a procession of all manner of boats used 
in fresh-water navigation moves across the black water, flaming with 
thousands of bright lanterns and fireworks. 

The best of fishing is enjoyed here in winter, from small huts on the ice, 
made snug and comfortable with stoves and stools, and other conveniences. 
These six-foot-square houses are seen from the trains, speeding in winter 
along the Winnisquam shores. The fish sought are fine large lake-trout, of 
several pounds' weight. At this same season the lake affords admirable 
skating, and a level field for horse-trotting. 

Near the foot of Winnisquam lies the pleasant town of I^aconia, 
abounding in factories along the river, and dowered with half a dozen 
churches, an opera-house, and a newspaper. There has been much talk of 
uniting this place and the neighboring Lake Village into a city, which would 
have not far from ten thousand inhabitants The hills in this vicinity com- 
mand a series of fine views, including the Sandwich, Ossipee, and Belknap 
ranges, Kearsarge and Moosilauke, and the beautiful silvery shields of the 
surrounding lakes. Mount Belknap, Weirs, and Tilton (with its famous 
memorial arch) are within driving-distance. The summer-hotels stand on 
high ground near the south shore of the lake, with charming views in every 
direction. The voyages of the local navy lead to Island Cottage, Three 
Islands, and other pleasant nooks along the old North (or Great) Bay. 



36 



CHAPTER IV. 



ASQUAM LAKE. 

Fish and Islands. — A Debated Name. — The Livermores. — Shepard 
Hill. — Whittier's Songs. — The Asquam Navy. — Squaw Cove. — 
Camp Chocorua. — Little Squam. — Minnesquam. — Peaked Hill. 

" Before me, stretched for glistening miles, 
Lay mountain-girdled Squam, 
Like green-winged birds, the leafy isles 
Upon its bosom swam." — Whittier. 

THE perfect flower of American lakes is Asquam, whose lovely bays 
and sun-lit broads are decorated with graceful and romantic islands, 
around which flow clear and pellucid channels, as bright as the sky above 
them. The abundant evergreens on the islands, the quiet pastures and 
forests of the shores, and the absence of villages or hamlets, endow the 
scene with a wild Norwegian beauty, which is marvellously heightened by 
the great mountains on the north and east, — Sandwich Dome, Tripyramid, 
Israel, Passaconaway, Chocorua, and Red Hill. The forty-two islands are 
drawn up in singular lines across the lake ; and around them (and especially 
near Long Island, famous for its perch) many fish dwell in peace, in the cold 
spring-water. In October, lake-trout of from five to twenty pounds are 
speared over the ledges. Great numbers of bowlders strew the bottom, and 
enforce caution on the part of boatmen. 

The scenery of Winnipesaukee is repeated here on a narrower and yet 
grander scale. The mountains overhang the waves more impressively, and 
the dancing waters are bordered by masses of woodland, rich acres of wav- 
ing corn, and the golden lights of grain-fields. 

" O gems of sapphire gmnite set! 

hills that charmed horizons fret! 

1 know how fair your morns can break, 
In rosy light on isle and lake; 

How over wooded slopes can run 

The noon-day play of cloud and sun. 

And evening droop her oriflamme 

Of gold and red in still Asquam." — John Greenleaf Whittier. 

In the map made for the Prince of Wales in 1755, this lake bore the 
unexplained name of Kusumpe Pond ; but the old Indian name of Squam, 
or Asquam, soon returned, and outlived the efforts of President Dwight, 



yi 



who christened it Lake Sullivan. It remained as Great Squam until within 
ten years, when its lovers have revived the full Indian title of Asqtiam, 
which means simply "water." 

Among the worthies who in old times dwelt near Asquam, the Livcrmore 
family claims first rank, Arthur, Samuel, and Edward of that ilk being for 
many years senators, congressmen, and judges; while Harriet wandered 




for many years in the Orient, and 
had a famous controversy with 
Lady Hester Stanhope in Syria. 
In the old Episcopal church, 
which still stands on the road to 
Plymouth, Judge Livermore and 
his lady sat on high chairs before 
the altar, while the 
yeomanry occupied 
benches in a hollow 
square around, and the 
seven daughters of the 
rector, with their bass- 
viols and sweet voices, 
served as the choir. 

Between the three 
lakes, Shepard Hill 
rises to a height of 
eight hundred feet 
above the sea, crowned 
with a summer-hotel 
and several pretty cot- 
tages, and the Epis- j' 
copal church of St. 

Pfcter's-in-the-^^ount, a memorial of "Priest Fowle," for nearly sixty years 
(1789-1847) rector of this region. For half a century, this has been a 
favorite resort of Whittier, whose poems make frequent reference to the 
wonderful scenery of the vicinity. Here he wrote "The Hill-Top," and the 
" Storm on Asquam." 



38 

" A cloud, like that the old-time Hebrew saw , 

On Carmel prophesying rain, began 
To lift itself o'er wooded Cardigan, 
Growing and blackening. Suddenly, a flaw 

" Of chill wind menaced ; then a strong blast beat 

Down the long valley's murmuring pines, and awoke 
The noon-dream of the sleeping lake, and broke 
Its smooth steel mirror at the mountains' feet." 

The Whittier Pines darken on the hillside; and across the valley, on Sini- 
set Mill, spreads the great pine, made famous by the poem of " 'I'iie Wood 
Giant." 




SQUAM LAKE, FROM SHEPAKD HILL 



'Alone, the level sun before; 

Below, the lake's green islands; 
Beyond, in misty distance dim. 
The rugged Northern highlands." 



The availability of Shepard Hill as a summer-home was discovered and 
utilized in 1869 by Dr. Ilurd of New York and I'rof. W. A. Norton of 
Yale College, and their cottages became the pioneers of many. 

The view from Shepard Hill covers an area of a hundred and fifty 
square miles, with Asquam, Little Squam, and Minnesquam nearly sur- 
rounding the base of the eminence ; a magnificent view of Sandwich Dome, 
Tripyramid, Mount Israel, Passaconaway, Paugus, the noble Chocorua, and 



39 



Red Hill, on the north-east and east; and a wilderness of peaks, S(|uam, 
Prospect, and the far-away Cardigan on the north and west. 

At the foot of Shepard Hill, near the pleasant little bathing-beach, is 
a convenient landing, among the rhododendrons and cardinal-flowers, and 
haunted by the loon, the heron, and the eagle. 

The Asquam navy is composed of two or three small steamboats plying 
irregularly, and only when chartered by summer-e.xcursionists to circumnavi- 
gate this gem of the mountains, with perchance a visit to one of the islets. 

On an island in Carnes' Cove stands a block-house inhabited by a lonely 
sea-captain. On the Domes, to the westward, are two or three summer- 
cottages, dowered with exquisite views and unbroken quietude. 

The shallow Squaw Cove, with its population of pickerel, is wellnigh 
cut off from the lake by Rattlesnake Mountain, on the 2 

north; and its name perpetuates a romantic legend of the ^ )f* i 

Indians. When the tribes fell back before the advance of '4.- *t»^»>S 
the Provincial regiments and villages, a few of their mem- .■(>#''' ••jl'5 
bers preferred to brave the perils of the white invaders, and -',, ■Cv_:i>-:g,'f«/^ 




if«^nfFnnX-;B > 



A BIT OF SHORE, SQUAM LAKE. 

remained about Asquam for the rest of their lives, finding kindly refuge 
amid the mountains whenever the raiding rangers entered the valley. 

Asquam is forty feet higher than Winnipesaukee, and a water-way runs 
from the latter, by Blackey's Cove (near Centre Harbor), up through Long 
Pond and Round Pond, to within a mile of Asquam. But this mile is 
occupied by a tall spur of Red Hill, and so it is easier for canoeing tourists 
to have their boats carried by wagon from Centre Harbor, the distance 
being but about two miles thence to the nearest bay of Asquam. 

Two singular and interesting institutions on this lake are Camp Cho- 
corua and Camp Asquam, the first-named occupying a wooded island of 
three acres, where a happy company of boys, under efficient tutorship, are 
taught to swim, row, fish, and enjoy themselves, and grow strong. Camp 
Asquam, on the western shore, has a score or more of boys, under the 
direction of several tutors. 



40 

The outlet of Asquam is a very picturesque, narrow, and crooked strait, 
through which boats can pass with ease, running under the highway bridge. 
This sylvan stream sees, 

" In the mirror of its tide, 
Tangled thickets on each side 
Hang inverted, and between 
Floating cloud or sky serene." 

It opens into Little Squam, a handsome lakelet, unbroken by islands, and 
bordered on one side by high wooded hills, and on the other by the Ashland 
road. " Here the sunset builds her silver bridge upon an arch of glory ; 
not an island dots its surface ; scarce a ripple darkens its blueness ; it 
speaks to the heart of endless summer — of eternal tranquility ; its wooded 
shores are gracefully curved and pointed ; its neighboring highway is starred 
with quaint old farmhouses ; its meadows are myriad-shaped." 

One of the most interesting (and arduous) rides in this region leads to 
Peaked Hill, famous for its views of Mount Moosilauke, Mount Washing- 
ton, the Franconia peaks, Cardigan, Kearsarge and Monadnock, with the 
misty Winnipesaukee, the shining levels of Asquam, and the beautiful New- 
found Lake. Over in New Hampton is Beach Hill, commanding a prospect 
hardly less grand. 

Minnesquam (the ancient White-Oak Pond) is a charming lakelet at the 
south-eastern base of Shepard Hill, with easy boating, and an old saw-mill 
at the outlet. 

There are a great number of pleasant drives from Asquam, leading in 
easy distances to Plymouth, Ashland, Centre Harbor, and Meredith, and the 
long and hill-abounding road around the lake. 



41 



CHAPTER V. 

LAKE SPOFFORD. 

A Vast String. — Black Bass and Perch. — Howells's Dictum. — 
Prospect Hill. — The Ride from Keene. — Brattleborough. 

LAKE SPOFFORD is an expanse of two thousand acres of the 
purest spring-water, rising through a bed of white sand, surrounded 
by sandy beaches and groves of oaks and pines and chestnuts, and lines of 
far-viewing hills. 

The circumference is about nine miles, and at various points on these 
delightful shores are groups of plain cottages for summer use, and the 
primitive camps of college-students and other spurners of lu.xury. The lake 
abounds in black bass and perch, and furnishes capital inducements for 
fishermen, for whose use numerous boats of all kinds are ready. A steam- 
boat plies from point to point along the shores, affording good opportunities 
for excursions, and awakening odd echoes with its saucy little whistle. 

The visitors to the lake come from all parts of the Union, and spend 
long seasons here, resting amid a calm so perfect that " the grass can be 
heard growing, and the squirrel's heart beating." William D. Howells, the 
greatest living American novelist, has spent much time here, and finds in 
this region some suggestions of the Italian lake-country. A beautiful island 
of eight acres gives variety to the scenery, with its bristling trees. The lake 
is seven hundred feet above the sea, and two hundred feet above the neigh- 
boring valley of the Connecticut. 

The visitors to this lovely gem of the Chesterfield hills sail away to 
Picnic Point and Echo Cove and Park Hill and the Island, or drive to the 
granite-walled Ravine, and down into the Connecticut Valley ; or climb up 
Prospect Hill, and look upon the Green Mountains, Ascutney and Monad- 
nock, "Cheshire's haughty hill," and along the tesselated valley of the 
Connecticut. 

Lake Spofford is reached by a stage-ride of ten miles from Keene, 
through deep forests, and thickets of birch and alder, and along the glens 
of a winding brook. The old red stage finally reaches the Prospect House, 
on the high bluff close by the lake; and down below the white steamboat is 
seen lying on the water, which sometimes resembles plate-glass in its 
mirror-like reflections, or frosted silver, or molten sapphire. 

A morning's drive leads to the bright little city of Keene, in the Ashuelot 
valley; and seven miles away is Brattleborough, a pleasant and historic old 
Vermont village, on a commanding plateau above the Connecticut River, 
with a singular and costly monument to Tames Fisk, jun. 



42 



CIIAPTKR VI. 



SUNAPEE LAKE, 

A Girdle of Mountains. — Lake View. — Sunatee Harbor. — A 
Scottish Minstrel. — The Islands and Shores. — An Indian 
Memorial. 

" Sweet Granite ' Katrine' of this mountain land! 
Oh jewel set amid a scene so fair! 
Kearsarge, Ascutney, rise on either hand, 

While Grantham watches with .1 lover's care, 
And our dark ' Ben ' to Croydon sends in glee, 
A greeting o'er thy silvery breast, Lake Sunapee." 

SUNAPEE LAKE lies among the highlands of Sullivan County, eleven 
hundred feet above the sea, nine miles long, and varying in width 
from half a mile to a league. There are si.K beautiful islets near the middle 
of the lake, and several others in the northern jiart ; and a dozen or more 




of wooded promontories give great diversity to the scene, and shelter lovely 
and sequestered bays. On all sides rise high and richly wooded hills and 
mountains, clothed in the graceful habiliments of Nature, and surrounding 
the peaceful scene like mighty sentinels. At the south. Mount Sunapee 
overlooks the mirror-like expanse, a huge dark-green pile of forest-clad rocks 
and ridges. To the eastward, the bare crown of Kearsarge salutes the sky; 



43 




44 



Croydon Mountain hems in the westward view; and on tlie north loom the 
lonely cliffs of Ragged Mountain. 

Some one has called Sunapee "the Loch Lomond of New Hampshire," 
but it more nearly resembles Loch Katrine, with its secluded beaches and 
wooded shores. The low hills in the vicinity repay the toil of ascent by 
charming views, covering the bright lake and its islands, the defile of the 
Sugar-River Valley, and line after line of tall 
and picturesque mountains, reaching far away 
into the dim blue distance. One of the best of 
these outlooks is that from Prospect Hill, near 
the Lake-View House. The waters of the lake 
are so transparent that the rocks and sands 




A GLIMPSE OF SUNAPEE HARBOR. 

thirty feet beneath are plainly seen, and among these submerged ledges the 
great fish may be watched, as they attend to their domestic and social affairs. 
The grassy slopes and rugged cliffs are mirrored in this still surface with 
surprising faithfulness. At this altitude, the air is dry and cool, and agrees 
not with the nimlile mosquito, the pest of so many other fair woodland 




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45 

scenes. The edicts of Fashion, moreover, are held in obeyance on these 
happy shores, and broadcloth gives place to flannel, and tennis-costumes 
and boating-suits are preferred to the more arduous garments of artificial 




civilization. So it naturally happens that the frequenters of Sunapee return 
to it year after year, and the pleasant explorations of its nooks and corners, 
bays and coves and islands, furnish ever-new themes of interest and delight. 

" I go to meet the winds of morn, 

Blown down the hill-gaps, mountain-born. 
Breathe scented pines, and satisfy 
The hunger of a lowland eye." 

On the western shore, half way up, is the sunimer-resort of Lake View, 
with its pretty cottages, commanding a pleasant prospect up and down the 




Moi'niiigs Catcl;> k . 
lake 3una|5ee.H.H 



bright waters, and off among the green islands. In more ])riniiti\e days, 
this ridge bore the name of Poverty Hill, and its land could not be sold for 
twelve dollars an acre*, hut the modern summer migration from the cities 



46 



has raised this price several tliousancl per cent. Just over the hill, and 
beyond the granite-quarries, the cjuiet hamlet of Sunapee Harbor nestles 
around an arm of the lake, with its factories clustered along the outlet, the 
rushing Sugar River. Above this little harbor rises Sunset Peak, with its 
enchanting view of the mountains and the lake. In the village is the home 
of William C. Sturoc, "the Bard of Sunapee," one of the most famous of 
Scottish- American poets, and a successful lawyer and orator. 

Turning from the bluff western shores to those on the east, wc find 
several beaches of white sand, and the cottage-resorts of Pine Cliff and 
Camp Comfort and Blodgett's Landing. Between these and Lake View is 

Liberty Island, joined by 
bridges to the western 
shore; and Great Island, 
covering seventy-five 
acres; and the gem-like 
little Gardner's Island. 
Away up at the north 
end of the lake, the end 
of the steamboat route, 
is the peaceful hamlet of 
George's Mills, at the 
outlet of Otter Pond and 
the pretty Little Suna- 
pee Lake. 

There is good fishing 
in this mouutain-tarn for 
landlocked salmon, 
black bass, perch, and 
lake-trout; and many a 
profitable haul of trout 
has been made along 
Sugar River, near the 
outlet. Several passen- 
ger-steamers p]y along 
the waters, their south- 
ernmost port being at 
Newbury, on the railway. 
The voyage down the lake at about sunset is a revelation of beauty. 

The disadvantages of Sunapee might be described in- some such words 
as those used by an old English writer: "There are but two drawbacks to 
this delightful property, — the litter of the rose-leaves and the noise of the 
nightingales." Here also we may recall the advice of quaint old Thomas 
fuller, to justify prolonging our vacation: "Chiefly choose a wholesome 
air, for air is a dish one feeds on every minute, and therefore it needs be 
pure." 

The name of the lake comes froni soona, " wild goose," and tii/>i, "water; " 
and preserves the memory of the aboriginal Indians, who frequented the 




47 




48 

shores because then (as now) large Hocks of clucks and Canada geese rested 
here every season on their way southward from their Arctic summer-homes. 
The Sunapee tribe, dwelling in this vicinity, was one of the Algonquin 
clans, now for ever passed into oblivion. 

" Still let thy woodl.inds hide the hare, 
The sly loon sound his trumpet-note. 
Wing-weary from his fields of air, 
The wild-goose on thee Hoat," 

Of late years, the fine woodland scenery of this region, the delicious 
coolness of the air, and the' good o])portunitics for riding on the adjacent 
roads, and boating and fishing in the lake, have given Lake Sunapee an 
increasing prominence among the summer-resorts of the Granite State, and 
its shores now have accommodations for nearly a thousand guests. 

" The summer day 

Rich in its regal beauty lay 

Over headland and beach and bay, 

And the voice of the waves sang dreamily 

A sweet, low tale to the listening ear." 



49 



CHAPTER \T:T. 

W^EBSTER LAKE. 

A Lakeland Song. — The Mirror of Hills. — The Birthplace of 
THE Great Expounder of the Constitution. 




WEBSTER LAKE. 

White clouds, whose shadows haunt the deep, 
Light mists, whose soft embraces keep 
The sunshine on the hills asleep ! 

O isles of calm! — O dark, still wood! 
And stiller skies that overbrood 
Your rest with deeper quietude! 



O shapes and hues, dim beckoning, through 
Yon mountain-gaps, my longing view 
Beyond the purple and the blue. 

To stiller sea and greener land. 
And softer lights and airs more bland, 
And skies, — the hollow of God's hand ! " 



AFTER passing Franklin, on its course up country, the Northern Rail- 
road gives a beautiful view over the clear waters of Webster Lake, 
environed by graceful hills, and adorned with pleasant beaches and prom- 
ontories. Li this region there are several unpretentious summer boarding- 
houses ; and the yeomanry of the surrounding country enjoy many hearty 
and unconventional picnics here every season. 



so 

Not far away is the little farm-house built in 1761 by Capt. Ebenezer 
Webster, a veteran of Lord Amherst's campaign of victory against Canada. 
Here Daniel Webster was born, where, as he said: "When my father had 
built his log-cabin, and lighted his fire, his smoke ascended nearer to the 
North Pole than that of any other of His Majesty's New-England subjects. 
His nearest civilized neighbor on the north was at Montreal." The rural 
regions of his native State were always dear to the god-like Daniel, who 
found pleasure and recreation in often returning to them from his great 
works of statecraft and diplomacy at Washington. Dr. Arnold, the famous 
English author and teacher, once said that walking amid fine scenery is an 
admirable "anti-attrition"; and nowhere can this blessing be found to better 
advantage than among the pleasant dales of this lakeland country of New 
Hampshire. 

The country has been to a great extent deserted by its former residents, 
and ruined farmhouses and overgrown pastures appear on every side. They 
were once the homes of sturdy New-England men whose descendants are 
now off on the great prairies, seeking other habitations and new environ- 
ments. But how often they must remember the old homes by the lakeside 
and the mountain-stream, and say with Holmes, "The world has a million 
roosts for a man, but only one nest." 



51 



CHAPTER VTTI. 

MASCOMA LAKE. 

Mount Tug. — The Shakkr Village. — Crystal Lake. — A Br.\ce 
OF Healing Springs. 

MASCOMA LAKE, the Indian Namos-com, or " Fish-Water,"' lies 
among the pleasant hills of Enfield and Lebanon, a narrow and 
winding pond of five miles in length, resembling a section of a crystalline 
river, caught among the highlands. Its shores are dotted with the camps 
and cottages of summer pleasure-seekers, and a steamboat makes frequent 
voyages along the tranquil waters, touching at the little vernal ports. 

The pleasantest view over Mascoma is enjoyed from the lowly Mount 
Tug, close to North Enfield, the manufacturing-village on the outlet. Many 
fish dwell under the placid bosom of the lake, and profitable fares of black 
bass and pickerel are captured by expert sportsmen. The bordering hills 
look across vast distances to the Green Mountains and the White Moun- 
tains, and other famous peaks, and especially uiKin " golden-crowned Cardi- 
gan," lying along the northern horizon. 

On the south-western shore is the Shaker village, divided into the 
North, Church, and South Families, and occupying the rich and narrow 
plain for two miles, cultivating and selling considerable quantities of 
valerian and garden-seeds, and carrying on some small manufactures. 
This singular colony dates from 1782; and the home of the Church F'amily, 
a massive stone building of four stories, with cupola and bell, was, in its 
early time, the most costly structure in New Hampshire, except the State 
House. The Shakers now number about two hundred. 

In this pleasant land of yea and nay, sleek cattle abound, and fields of 
golden grain crowd along the margin of the blue water, and sweet herbs 
perfume the still air. And in the quaint homes of the marriage-hating 
elders earnest hospitality dwells, even for the children of the world. 

The surrounding town is noted for its diversified and tranquil scenery, — 
lakes and brooks and meadows, and graceful hills cultivated from valley to 
summit. Two miles east of the head of Mascoma, the beautiful Crystal 
Lake (East Pond) glimmers among the guardian hills, with a single lonely 
island breaking its deep clear waters. 

Four miles down the Mascoma valley are the famous Chiron Springs, a 
pure and aerated alkaline-saline water, and reputed to be rich in healing 
properties, especially in connection with rheumatism and dyspepsia. The 
Jerusalem Spring lies over in Canaan, with its extraordinarily pure water, 
and views of many a noble mountain wrapped in blue veils of distance. 



52 



CHAPTER IX. 



NEWFOUND LAKE. 

Bristol. — A View in Kridgewater. — Lacustrine Localities.— Around 
THE Lake. — Peaked Hill. 



ONE of the most lovely and least known lakes of New England may 
be reached by going up the Bristol Branch from Eranklin, on the 
Northern Railroad, alongside of the swift Pemigewasset River. ( )n the little 
plateau over the gorge of the Newfound River stands the bright manufactur- 
ing-village of Bristol; and five or si.K miles to the northward the sparkling 




NEWFOUND LAKE. 



waters of Newfound Lake open away among the hills, seven miles long and 
three miles wide, and well populated with lake-trout, landlocked salmon, 
black bass, pickerel, chub, and perch. 

The kindly and hospitable farmers of the surrounding hills take many 
summer-boarders into their homes; and along the shore, now in low and 
sandy beaches, and again swelling into rocky promontories, scores of white 
tents of peaceful campaigners blink at each other over the wide water. The 
little-used pastures are occupied by battalions of berry-bushes; and myriads 
of sweet northern flowers bloom all summer long around the peaceful bays. 

" And the fir and the sassafras yield tlieir bahn, 
Sweet as the odors of morning lands, 
Where the eagle floats in the summer noon, 
While his comrade clouds drift silent by. 



And the waters fill witli a mystic tune 

The fane the cliffs have built to the sky." 

From the eastern shore, in Bridgewater, near the only hotel on the lake, 
there is an unusually fine view across the placid waters, with Moss, Belle, 
Mayhew, and other wooded islands dotting its surface, and Sugar Loaf rising 
from the western shore, with Bear Hill beyond, and Mount Hebron, with the 
white spire of Hebron village at its foot. Farther away rises the long rocky 
crown of Mount Cardigan, a noble line of rocky crests, under the sunset. 

There are many already who know the delights of Nutting's Beach, and 
Grove-Hill Farm, and Crescent Beach, and Breezy Point, and Rocky Point. 
Around these pleasant camp and cottage resorts the lake smiles witchingly, 
and its mimic waves dash merrily on the white beaches and rocky islands, and 
small boats of all degrees make holiday voyages. High hills approach the 
glen on all sides, — the Alexandria and Bristol ridges, the well-known Bridge- 
water Hills, and Crosby Mountain, looming darkly on the north. Sugar Loaf 
rises directly from the edge of the water, which is full thirty fathoms deep 
just off shore. The surface of the lake stands at 597 feet above the sea, 
and this considerable altitude gives a refreshing coolness to the air. 

A pleasant road of sixteen miles leads around the lake, most of the way 
under tall old trees, and affording many lovely views over the placid waters 
and their environing hills, and the abounding lowland farms. Another capital 
excursion leads to the top of Peaked Hill, which commands a prospect of 
great landscape splendor, from the Franconia Mountains to the Sandwich 
Range and the blue Ossipees, with the glorious expanses of Winnipesaukee, 
Asquam, and Newfound. 



54 



CHAPTER X. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

The Richelieu River. — Fishing-Places. — Noble Mountain-Views. 
— A Battle-Ground of Nations. — Maquam Bay. — Hotel Cham- 
plain. — Plattsburg. — Ausable Chasm. — Burlington. — Split 
Rock. — Ticonderoga. 

LAKE Champlain is less than a hundred feet above tide-water, and finds 
its outlet in the noble Richelieu River, running down to the St. 
Lawrence by Isle aux Noix, Chambly, Beioeil, and Sorel. The best fishing 
is among the islands in the northern bays, where bass and pickerel are found 
in great numbers; and several camps of anglers have been established in this 
vicinity. There is very good fishing about St. Albans Bay, where bass and 
pickerel reward the toils of the angler. 

One of the unchanging charms of Champlain, in which it is paramount 
over almost all American lakes, is its great number of magnificent views of 
the mountain-ranges on either side. Among the most notable of these is the 
famous all-around panorama from the University hill at Burlington, with 
scores of leagues of the Green Mountains on one side, and on the other, 
across the foreground of the lake, the long sierra of the Adirondacks. From 
about the Hero Islands there is another remarkable prospect of the Adiron- 
dacks ; and from Basin Harbor, opposite Westport, the same range appears in 
glorious majesty, with Mounts Marcy, Dix, and Hurricane nobly conspicuous. 
From the ancient fortress of Crown Point, the Green Mountains are seen 
stretching along the eastern horizon for a vast distance. 

In this sapphire-paved amphitheatre, between the mighty ranges of the 
Adirondacks and the Green Mountains, what romantic and historic scenes 
have been enacted during the past three centuries ! The ancient Algonquins 
regarded it as the gate of the Iroquois country ; and arniv after army of 
Frenchmen, Provincials, Britons, and Americans have traversed its placid 
bosom, or locked themselves in deadly battle on its shores, while the broad- 
sides of hostile fleets awoke the echoes of the eternal hills. What memories 
are roused by the words Ticonderoga, Crown Point, Plattsburg, Valcour 
Island, Whitehall ! Strange legends, too, rest about many of the islands and 
bays and promontories, and give a tinge of unusual romance to Champlain, 
which a well-known antiquary has credited with " more historical associations 
than any other lake in America." 

Within the last five years, an unusual life and activity have manifested 
themselves around these shores. The number of summer-tourists has greatly 
increased; the noble sport of yachting has gained a sure foothold; and in 
manv choice localities along the coast new estates have been founded. The 



55 

lake is 126 miles long and fifteen miles wide (at its greatest breadth), with a 
depth of from nine to forty-seven fathoms. 

The tranquil and beautiful arm of the lake known as Maquam Iiay is the 
terminus of the St. Johnsbury & Lake-Champlain Railroad, and of the 
steamboat line. Here stands the Hotel Champlain, commanding a fine view 
over the lake ; and not far distant is the pretty village of Swanton. 

The steamboat voyage from Maquam Bay leads down through the Hero- 
Islands, making several landings, and then stretching across the lake, and 
around Cumberland Head, into the harbor of Plattsburg, a large New-York 
town, with a railway leading into the Adirondacks, towards the Saranac Lakes. 
This is the place attacked by Sir George Prevost, in 1814, with 14,000 British 
troops and sixteen war-vessels, and defended by Gen. Macomb and 4,000 
Americans, aided by Com. Macdonough and fourteen vessels. The invaders 
were repulsed, with the loss of 2,000 men and their entire fleet. 

Running south from Plattsburg, our route lies near Valcour Island, off 
which a British squadron destroyed Arnold's fleet of fifteen vessels and 
seventy guns, after a long October-day battle in 1776. 

From Port Kent, stages run to the Ausable Chasm, a wonderful gorge of 
two miles, which the Ausable River has cut through the sandstone cliffs. 

It is a noble sail across the lake from Port Kent to Burlington, past the 
Four Brothers, Rock Uunder, and Juniper Island. Burlington ranks as the 
chief city of Vermont, with 12,000 inhabitants, several fine stone churches 
and public buildings, and an immense lumber-trade. Here, also, you may 
see the University of Vermont (founded in I79i),with its magnificent library 
building, designed by Richardson ; and Ward's bronze statue of Lafayette ; 
and the grave and statue of Ethan Allen ; and the Vermont Episcopal Insti- 
tute, on Rock Point ; and the home of Senator Edmunds ; and such sunsets, 
across the broad lake and behind the jagged Adirondacks, as no other 
American city can show. 

Steamboats run from Burlington to various ports in the southern part of 
the lake, — Essex, Westport, Port Henry, and Ticonderoga, — over a route of 
great natural beauty, and rich in historical and poetic associations. On either 
side of the lake are first-class railways, traversing St. Albans, Burlington, Ver- 
gennes, Middlebury, and Rutland on the east, and the New- York ports on 
the west, from Rouse's Point and Plattsburg to Lake George and Saratoga. 

A few miles below Burlington is Shelburne Point, partly enclosing a 
beautiful bay, and occupied by two sons-in-law of Commodore Vanderbilt, 
Messrs. Webb and Twombly, whose estates cover 2,800 acres. 

Near Essex is the Split Rock, the Rocher Fendii of the French explorers, 
and the Rogers Fender of their uncomprehending Anglo-Saxon rivals. A 
light-house crowns this lofty cliff, whose neighborhood is held to be the most 
wind-swept part of the lake, with four hundred feet of water just off shore. 

The end of the steamboat route is at the high-placed ruins of Fort Ticon- 
deroga, founded in 1690, and rebuilt by the Marquis de Montcalm in 1755, 
and for nearly a century hallowed by the blood of thousands of gallant 
soldiers, Mohawk and Iroquois, French and Canadian, English and Scottish, 
German and American. 



f>^ 



CHAPTER XI. 

\A^ILLOUGHBY LAKE. 

A Vermont Water-Gap. — Mount Annanance. — A Cluster of 
Flowers of the Forest. 



AWAY up in Northern Vermont, two great mountains rise above the 
wooded plains of Westmore, holding in the gap between them the 
celebrated Willoughby Lake, whose waters are of such profound depth that 
in some places no bottom has ever been found, even with a hundred fathoms 
of sounding-line. This limpid sheet stretches away for six miles, under the 

AKE 



,^r:!P 




shadows of the mountain-walls, whose bases meet far below its tideless 
bosom, and are explored by schools of trout and muscalonge. In the west, 
the shaggy heights of Mount Ilor reach a height of fifteen hundred feet 
above the water, crowned with dark evergreens; and on the opposite shore, 
over a thousand feet higher, looms the rocky spire which is variously known 
as Mount Annanance, or Willoughby, or Pisgah. (Annanance was the brave 
Indian chief who dwelt here in the bad old times when New England's fron- 
tiers lay under the ban of battle, murder, and sudden death.) A path of two 
and a half miles leads from the little summer-hotel at the foot of the lake to 
the top of this polyonomous peak, whence you may look out over the vast 
sugar-maple forests of Newark, and hundreds of hermitage farms, to the 
clustering White Mountains, and in the other direction, across the silvery 



57 



Memphremagog, to Owl's Head, and again to the interminalile sierras of the 
Green Mountains and the Adirondacks. 

The shores and hills abound in birches and maples, tree-like arbor-vitae, 
graceful larches, yews, aspens, beeches, and mountain-ashes. Harebells, 
violets, forget-me-nots, orchids, and a great variety of ferns, are found on 
these shores, whose flora is set forth by Charles E. Ridler, with the usual 
botanical Latini<y, in "Appalachia" for December, 1S84 (Vol. IV.). The 
Flower Garden, famous for its rich and rare plants, is high up on Mount 
Annanance, beyond the Pulpit Rock. 

A lonely country-road runs up the eastern shore, close to the lake, and 
passes out by Westmore Mountain to Charleston, near the lovely Seymour 
Lake, and Island I'ond, on the Grand Trunk Railway. The Devil's Den, 
the Silver Cascade, the Point of Rocks, and other interesting localities may 
be visited along this lakeside drive, above which the crumbling cliffs of 
Mount Annanance soar high into the blue firmament. Or, if a marine excur- 










sion is preferred, there are plenty of small boats about the hotel, and also a 
miniature steamboat, whereby you may rush down this plain of limpid crystal 
to the farms clustered about the outlet, and the crossing of the turnpike to 
I>arton Landing and Irasburgh. 

But our few words about Willoughby Lake utterly fail to show forth the 
fantastic beauty of the scene, which recalls the Delaware Water-Gap, on the 
Pennsylvania border. That, however, is a fashionable resort, on a great rail- 
way route, while Willoughby, leagues from the nearest hamlet, and with its 
western shore as unvisited as the heart of Clreenland, is a place for lovers of 
pure Nature and the peace that she brings. The lake is reached from 
West Burke, on the Passumpsic Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad, 
hy a i)leasant stage-ride of six miles. 



58 




59 



CHAPTER XII. 



LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Newport. — Lake George, Geneva, or Loch Lomond. — The East- 
ern Townships. — Owl's Head. — Georgevxlle. — Magog. — Mount 
Orford. — Brome Lake. 

" Our father rode again his ride 
On Memphremagog's wooded side; 
Sat down again to moose and samp 
In trapper's hut and Indian camp; 
Again for him the moonlight shone 
On Norman cap and bodiced zone; 
Again he heard the violin play 
Which led the viliage dance away." 

AT the station of the Boston & Maine Railroad (Lowell System), in 
Boston, you may take nn char dortoir Pullman attache an train de 
unit de Boston a Montreal, and reach Lake Memphremagog before dawn in 
the morning. Or the same transit may be made between nine in the morning 
and five in the afternoon. And so, running past the White Mountains and 




the lovely lakes of New Hampshire, and up the long Passumpsic Valley, 
you come to Newport, the metropolis of the Memphremagog region. 

The old-time Pickerel Point, down near the southern end of the lake, is 
now occupied by the pretty modern village of Newport, with its 2,500 
inhabitants, five churches, and other civic institutions, and a great sunnner- 
hotel close to the lake-side. From Prospect Hill, a short walk from the 
streets, a charming view of the lake is gained, with its line of mountain 
guards and verdure-tinted valleys extending for many leagues. 



6o 

" Broad in the sunshine stretched away, 
With its capes and islands, the turquoise bay, 
And over water and dusk of pines 
Blue hills lifted their faint outlines." 

From Newport as a centre, many interesting excursions may be made, 
from the drives and walks around the village and the bay, to the restful 
voyages down the lake to Owl's Head and Georgeville, and the longer 
journeys, full of memorable attraction, to Willoughby Lake or Jay Peak. 
Only five miles distant, the frontier-line of Canada marks the division 
between the two great Anglo-Saxon nations of the west, daughters of Britain, 
and elder sisters of Australia and New Zealand. 

Newport is a capital point for fishermen to visit, for in its vicinity there 
is many a pellucid stream, where brook-trout rise to the seductive fly, down 
among the fair valleys of Vermont. And in Memphremagog there are plenty 
of lake-trout of three or four pounds, and old fishermen tell of landing noble 
specimens that have weighed forty pounds each. The favorite locality for 
this sport is in the deep, cold, and clear waters in the vicinity of Owl's Head, 




where the great cliffs frown down upon unsounded depths. There are also 
many alert black bass in the lake, and they may even be caught from the 
bridge at Newport ; and as to perch, they were for years regarded as valueless, 
until their schools wellnigh filled the southern bays. The best pickereling 
is in Fitch Bay, which is almost an independent lake, joined to Memphre- 
magog on its eastern side by picturesque narrows. The lake-trout of this 
region are popularly called "lunge," on account of their supposed relation- 
ship to the muscalonge family, so abundant elsewhere in Canadian waters. 
But in reality the muscalonge is an entirely different fish from the Memphre- 
magog trout {salnio cotifiiiis), which may be found here in four varieties, — 
the black, silver, gray, and copper. 

Stretching away northward for thirty-three miles, between rock-bound 
shores and ancient forests, with a chain of high mountains brooding along 
its western shore, and many a graceful island rising above the clear waves, 
Memphremagog truly merits its strong Indian name, which means " Beautiful 
Water." It attains a length of thirty-three miles, with a width varying from 
one to four miles, and is traversed daily by a handsome Clyde-built steam- 



6i 



boat, making several landings on the way. There are several other steamers, 
and the safe navigation of the lake is aided by government liglit-honses. 

The steamboat from Newport makes two trips diily along the entire 
lake, to Magog and back, the running-time each way (including stops) being 







about three hours. There are many sail-boats and row-boats at Newport, in 
which trips may be taken among the islands, and along the picturesque 
shores. Tiiere is always a breeze here, coming fron) the mountains, and 
cooling the air delightfully. 

The usual standard of comparison for Memphremagog is the exquisitely 




beautiful Take George, like this mountain-bound, and adorned with pretty 
islands. Other people find here resemblances to Loch Lomond ; and those 
who have been farther afield call it the Lake Geneva of Canada. The 
northern air is strangely exhilarating, cooled by the mountain elevations, 



62 



or by blowing over the crystalline cold waters of the lake; and overhead 
extends a transparent blue sky. 

Among the other attractions of Memphremagog, its picturesque scenery, 
glorious sunsets, serenity of sunny days and majesty of scourging gales, its 







negative virtues should be set forth, in the absence of mosquitoes and 1)lack 
flies, and of brooding fogs. 

As one who is-niost familiar with the region has said: " Tlie scenery of 
Memphremagog is incisive, vigorous, robust. Its features are distinct, 
salient, characteristic. It cannot claim, like Winnipesaukec, a wealth of 




island jewelry, but the brooch and studs it wears are enough to adorn without 
destroying the unity of its shining bosom. Its shores are heavily wooded, 
and for the most part bold and rugged, but at times gently subsiding into 
sloping beaches." 



63 

Four-fifths of the lake are within the Canadian lines, cutting into the 
heart of the nine counties composing the Eastern Townships, so called in 
distinction from the Seignories, inhabited by feudal French habitaiis. The 
settlers here came from New England, and held their domains "in free and 
common soccage " — a peaceful race of hardy pioneers, who find two jails 
more than enough for nine great counties. 

And so premising, we will run out of Newport and down the lake. After 
the boat has passed Indian Point, where the last settlement of the aborig- 
ines stood, the white Canadian village of Stanstead appears beyond the 
Twin Sisters islands ; and the huge green mass of Bear Mountain looms in 
the near west. Near Province Island, the property of Mr. Zabriskie of New 
York, where buried treasures await discovery, we cross the invisible line 







which separates the sister-nations, Canada and the United .States; and so 
we become like the famous Lord Bateman : 

" And he departed into foreign lands 
Strange countries for to see." 

The most conspicuous and noble object about the lake is the great 
mountain, Owl's Head, rising abruptly from the western shore to a crown of 
bare crags, and with a summer-hotel at the base, and Round Island off 
shore. A path a mile and a half long leads to the suminit, whence, on a clear 
day, the adventurous climber may see the great lake underspread, the Wil- 
loughbys and White and Green and Adirondack Mountains, and many a 
lonely lake, set in the illimitable green of the northern plains. Rougemont 



64 



and Beloeil rise in tne remote north-west, and the towers of Notre Dame 
mark the site of Montreal. 

From the bosom of the lake Jay Peak may be seen, rising with fine effect 
in the south-west; and on rarely clear days the far-away crest of Mount 
Washington may be descried, low down on the horizon. The nameless 
hills and ridges beyond Elephantis huddle about the foot of the lake, with 
their tempting suggestions of wild lands to be explored, and virgin streams 
to invite the angler's attention. 

Across the lake is Bay-View Park, at the mouth of Fitch Bay, and near 
Skinner's Island, where a celebrated smuggler of eighty years ago used to 
evade the customs officers by disappearing in an unknown cavern. Beyond 
is Long Island, with its fringe of palisades and a famous Balance Rock. The 



(Jear Owl's hcad MountaiiJ - 

* ' HOUSE 

LAKE MEMPHf^EMAGOC-— 




Allans, Molsons, and other prominent Montreal families have villas along 
the eastern shore here, looking across at the sharp pyramid of Ov/l's Head 
and the Jumbo-shaped Mount Elephantis. 

The estate founded here by the late Sir Hugh Allan is the most conspic- 
uous on the lake. In the old days, the flag of the Allan Line of ocean 
steamships waved from this mansion during the season ; and the lord cf the 
manor used to carry his guests about the lake in a handsome steam-yacht, a 
diminutive model of the great Atlantic steamships. The Allan place is four 
miles below Georgeville. Just to the northward is the pleasant summer- 
home of Mr. Alexander Molson of Montreal, near Molson's Island and its 
lovely sheltered bay. Farther up the valley, in and near Stanstead, there 
are several comfortable summer-estates, or country-houses, belonging to 



6s 

Montrealers. It is surprising that tliis feature of life, so attractive to our 
Anglo-Canadian brethren, should not have been developed to a greater 
extent on these lovely and salubrious shores, which should be to Montreal 
what Loch Lomond is to Glasgow. 

Georgeville is a primitive, quiet, inexpensive little Canadian village, 
decadent since the busier days about the middle of the century, when its 
trade covered a great area of the Eastern Townships. A large modern 
hotel now caters for summer-travel, succeeding the famous old Camperdown 
Inn. "Georgeville is one of the most self-possessed towns of Canada; a 
single wire and a daily mail-bag keep it in communication with the outside 
world. But no breezes of intelligence from any direction ever disturb the 
perfect serenity of its peace." 

Here you may enjoy the bright and electric mornings, with life in the air 
and an indescribably jocund gleam on the waves. And after the silent after- 




noons, under a sky of turquoise, the splendors of sunset flood the western 
mountains with rich and rosy tints. 

" Filled was the air with a dreaming and magical light." 

The little hamlet nestles at the feet of high green hills, and attracts a 
great number of Canadian summer-guests, mostly from the well-to-do families 
of Montreal. The great hotel across the lake, now wellnigh dismantled, 
was built by capitalists from the metropolis of Canada, to be an ultra-fash- 
ionable resort for New- World baronets and gentry and their families; but 
the scheme failed of success, and the house was never opened. 

After leaving Georgeville, we run across the bright lake and up Sergeant's 
Bay to Knowlton's Landing. Rounding the high rocks of Gibraltar Point, 
with its great ruined hotel, and traversing a narrow strait inside of a wooded 
island. Mount Orford appears in advance, and the steamboat speeds down 



66 

across broader reaches to Magog, a small Canadian hamlet on the outlet, the 
Magog River, which flows down over many a bright rapid, abounding in 
trout, to the St. Francis River. From Magog, we may ride to the top of 
Mount Orford, in five miles, and look out over the interminable forests of 
the Eastern Townships. Over back of the mountain there is a sequestered 
lake, famous for its abounding fish, who fairly clamor to be caught. 

A queer old steam ferry-boat crosses the lake from Georgeville to 
Knowlton's Landing, whence a ride of fourteen miles over rugged and pic- 
turesque hills leads to the busy village of Knowlton and its summer-hotel, at 
the head of Brome Lake, three by four miles in area, with low and sedgy 
shores, and furnishing pickerel and black bass for the sportsmen of Mon- 
treal. The return journey should be made through the notch in the Bolton 
Mountains, past the trout-abounding Coon Pond. Brome Lake is the reser- 
voir of the Yamaska River, flowing down into the great St. Lawrence Valley. 
Nor will the angler omit to visit BromjDton Lake and Sugar-Loaf Pond, with 
their abundant trout; or Magog Lake, where trout and pickerel rise to the 
fly ; or St. Francis Lake, abounding in many varieties of fish. 

One of the "pleasantest companions at Lake Memphremagog is "The 
Shaybacks in Camp," by the Rev. Samuel J. Barrows of Boston, portraying 
the happy experiences of a family encamping on the shore near Georgeville. 

Through the pass in the mountains that line the lake along the west, we 
may descend to the Missisquoi Valley, with the deep pools and swift currents 
of its river; and journey to Bolton Springs, the fashionable resort of this 
pari; of the Eastern Townships. 



67 



CHAPTER XIII. 

LAKE ST. JOHN. 

ROI'.KKVAL AND I'OINTE ]5lKLIE. THIi " I'ERIHONCA's " VoYACES. — DoWN 

THE Saguenay. — The Winnanish. — A Province of New France. — 
Lake Edouard. 

THE trip to Lake St. John is one of the most' novel and interesting in 
America, and is admirably served by through sleeping and buffet cars, 
running from Boston, over the Lowell System of the Boston & Maine Rail- 
road, up the Merrimac Valley and past Lake Winnipesaukee, and reaching 
Quebec at early morning. After a full day in the ancient fortress-citv, the 
parlor-car starts for Lake St. John, two hundred miles to the northward, 
past many a quaint hamlet of French peasants and Lidian hunters, and then 
for scores of leagues through the virgin forest. At late afternoon the great 
lake is reached, and a steamboat runs up to Roberval and its new summer- 
hotel. So broad is this remote forest-sea that its blue waters form the 
horizon-line, and the farther shore is quite invisible. Roberval is a village 
of one thousand inhabitants, with a Catholic church and an Ursuline con- 
vent ; and on Pointe Bleue, a few miles distant, stands the old Hudson's-Bay 
Company's fort, still visited by crowds of Montaignais Indians, from the 
wild north land towards the great bay. The railway is being prolonged from 
Chambord Junction to St. Jerome, towards Grande Decharge, and will in 
time reach Chicoutimi and Ha-Ha Bay. The steamer Pcribonca makes daily 
trips around the lake, and to the mouths of the great northern rivers, and 
gives views of the islands, the tin-clad spires of the parish-churches, the 
sand-hills of the northern shore, the yellow sandy beaches, the snow-white 
three-hundred-feet falls of the Ouiatchouan, the church of St. Prime, at the 
mouth of the Ashuapmouchouan, and the blue Laurentian Mountains. It is 
about thirty miles down the Saguenay to Chicoutimi, the northern port of 
the Quebec steamboats; and this journey may be made in canoes, with the 
skilful local boatmen, rounding the rapids by portages. 

The lake is twenty-six miles long by twenty miles wide, rather shallow, 
and receives the waters of several rivers, three of which, the Ashuapmou- 
chouan, Peribonca, and Mistassini, are each over two hundred miles long 
and a mile wide at their mouths. They flow down from the watershed of 
the St. Lawrence and Hudson's Bay, from I-ake Nikoubau and other savage 
solitudes. 

The fish for which this northern sea is famous is the winanishc, or land- 
locked salmon, long, slim, and gamey, and averaging above two pounds in 
weight. Among other fish found here are trout, pickerel, cusk, perch, pike, 



68 

dace, and eels. Some of the best fishing-grounds are near the house of the 
Saguenay Club, on Alma Island, where the Saguenay River leaves the lake. 
The road from the railway leads hither by way of St. Jerome and St. Gedeon. 

The ancient monopolies of the Domaine du Roi, the Northwest Company, 
and the Hudson's-Bay Company kept this vast Saguenay Valley empty for 
over two centuries, save for a chain of trading-posts extending from Tadou- 
sac to Mistassini and Hudson's Bay. With the cessation of the Company's 
power, in 1S42, a great wave of French immigration moved up the valley, and 
now it contains forty thousand inhabitants. Around the lake, tobacco, 
melons, and maize, and other crops, are raised. There are fourteen parishes 
here, inhabited by sturdy and prolific French-Canadians, courteous, hos- 
pitable, and entertaining. Their little white farm-houses line the shore for 
many miles, here and there assembling in little hamlets, each with its school 
and church. 

On the way up from Quebec the railway passes Lake Edouard, narrow 
and winding, and twenty-seven miles long, studded with islands, and enwalled 
by the Laurentian Mountains. There are capital camping-grounds here, and 
a small hotel also. Large trout are found in amazing numbers, and the 
lake is leased by the railway for the use of its patrons. The return-trip 
includes pleasant and fruitful sojourns at Quebec and at Lake Memphrema- 
gog; and at the end of a week, with a total expenditure for transportation, 
transfers, hotel-bills, etc., of less than fifty dollars, the amateur explorer 
reaches home once more, possessed of much to remember and enjoy in the 
retrospects of years. 



Adventurous tourists who seek this far-away fragment of Norman Amer- 
ica should read W. H. H. Murray's "The Doom of Mamelons," and the 
illustrated leading article in Scribner's Magazine for May, 1889, entitled 
" The Land of the Winanishe." 



69 



CHAPTER XIV. 

CONNECTICUT LAKE. 

The Upper-Coos Route. — Second Lake. — Third Lake. — Fourth 
Lake. — Mount Prospect. 

CONNECTICUT LAKE is sixteen miles by stage from West Stewarts- 
town, on the Upper-Coos Railroad, which diverges from the Grand 
Trunk line at Stratford. It has a small steamboat and a summer-hotel, and 
is frequented by many sportsmen, for the sake of the fishing and hunting for 
which all this region is famous From the lake, pleasant views are afforded 
of the Magalloway Mountains and other rarely visited ranges. 

Connecticut Lake covers perhaps three square miles, with very irregular 
shores, partly in grassy pastures, but mainly in primeval forest. The beauty 
of the scene, when autumn has overflowed it with gorgeous coloring, is finely 
described by Prof. Huntington, in the Geology of New Hampshire (Vol. i). 

The Second Connecticut Lake, two miles long, is praised by Huntington 
as "one of the most beautiful of our northern lakes. The graceful contour of 
its shores, the symmetry of its projecting points, the stately growth of its 
primeval forests, the carpet of green that is spread along its border and 
extends through the long vista of the woods, the receding hills and the 
distant mountains, present a combination of the wild, the grand, and the 
beautiful that is rarely seen." 

About seven miles from the Second Lake, ascending the infant Connect- 
icut, is the Third Lake, 2,038 feet above the sea, and covering less than a 
square mile, surrounded by high hills and wild gardens of sub-alpine flowers 
and immense evergreen trees. 

A little rill descends into Third Lake from Fourth Lake, a lonely forest- 
pool, 2,551 feet above the sea, and close to the St. Lawrence watershed and 
the Canadian border. This is the ultimate source of the great Connecticut 
River, which flows southward for hundreds of miles, to Long-Island Sound. 
It is half hidden amid vast evergreen forests, with no sign of civilization. 
Close by, and within a few minutes' walk, is the top of Mount Prospect, 
overlooking thousands of square miles of the Quebec woodlands, as wild as 
the heart of Saskatchewan. 

" Fresh from the rock and welling by the tree, 
Rushing to meet and dare and breast the sea, 
Fair, noble, glorious river! in thy wave 
The sunniest slopes and sweetest pastures lave." 



70 



CHAPTER XV. 



PARMACHENEE LAKE. 

The Magalloway River. — I'.eklin Mills. — Moun r Azlscuus. — A 
Carry to Connecticut Lake. 



AFTER crossing red Umbagog, the steamboat runs down the rapid 
Androscoggin River for a few miles to Errol Dam, and then back a 
little way, and up the Magalloway River for sixteen miles, to the I'erlin-Mills 




Hotel. ''The >lreaiii slips dciwn blackly i)ctwccn walls of evergreen forest; 
or sweeps the long coasts of natural meadows, dotted with royal elms; ot 



71 



flashes down over long inclines." It is hardly more than a hundred feet wide, 
and winds in a surprising nianner, through overarching cloisters of living 
green. The inflowing streams come down from lonely forest-ponds, the haunts 
of deer and moose, the blue heron, and wild ducks. From the I'erlin-Mills 
House a buckboard road leads nearly to the summit of Mount Aziscoos, the 
finest mountain in all the Rangeley country, whose outspread panorama it 
commands with superb effect. 




AZISCOOS FALLS, MAGALLOWAV KIVliK. 

Aziscoos Falls arc si.x miles by road from the mills; and here the second 
section of steam-navigation begins, and the swift and narrow Magalloway is 
ascended for fifteen miles, to the Lower Mcttaluk Pond. For twelve miles 
above this point the river traverses a succession of rich meadows, and may 
be ascended by canoes. Then comes a portage path of four miles, leading 
to Tarmachenee Lake, solitary among the verdure-clad hills, whose only 



72 

inhabitants are bears and deer and the smaller children of the primeval 
forest. The public house is called Camp Caribou, and stands on a romantic 
island near the head of the lake. Here sportsmen spend weeks of every 
summer, 2,500 feet above the sea, and surrounded by the charms of Nature 




UPPER MAGALLOWAY. 

in her wildest mood. No human home appears on all the score of miles 
around the placid lake. Its altitude of 2,500 feet above the sea gives an 
added virtue to the air. Thoreau, that wise naturalist, averred that the air 
of Maine is a diet-drink; and a very choice brand of it may be found here. 



73 

The vicinity of Parmachence is enriched by many excellent fishing- 
grounds, — Beaver Pond, Saturday Pond, Moose ISrook, Little Boy's Falls, 
and others; and there are snug little huts for fishermen near several of 
these localities. The chief object in the natural scenery of the lake is the 
conical Bose-Buck Mountain, rising from the south-eastern cove; and the 
great Mount Carmel lies within two or three miles of the lake, on the north- 




ON LAKE PARMACHENEE. 



west. Glimpses are gained also of the untrodden Boundary Mountains. 
Standing thus at the headwaters of the Androscoggin, you may wish to 
return by another route. If so, it is only ten miles (but tremendously hard 
ones) from Camp Caribou to the Second Connecticut Lake, whose waters 
flow down from near the frontier, and enter the Connecticut River. 



74 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE RANGELEY LAKES. 

Farmington. — Rangeley. — Indian Rock. — Cupsuptic. — Lake Moose- 

LUCMAGUNTIC. — BaLD MOUNTAIN. — MoLLYCHUNKAMUNK LaKK. — LAKE 

Welukennekacook.— Lake Umuac^og. 



" Then I gently shake tlie tackle 
Till the barbed and fatal hackle 
In its tempered jaws shall shackle 
That old trout, so wary grown." 

AWAY up in the north-western corner of Maine, deep amid the forests, and 
surrounded by untrodden mountains, are the famous fishing and 
liunting grounds of the Rangeley Lalces, for a generation past the favorite 
resort of the better class of New-England sportsmen. This charmed region 
is entered by taking the IJoston & Maine Railroad to Portland, whence we 
may go by the Maine 
Central Railroad to 
Farmington and Phillips, 
and stage to Greenvale, 
on Rangeley Lake; or 

by the Grand Trunk / \ 

Railway to Bryant' s 
Pond, and stage to ^n- 
dover and South Arm 




VIEWS IKuM KANGELEV LAKES. 



on Lake Welokennebacook ; or by the (hand Trunk Railway to Bethel, and 
stage to Lake Umbagog. There are dozens of hotels, camps, and boarding- 
houses around the lakes, with simple but comfortable and inex])ensive 
accommodations; and expert guides and woodsmen may be secured at many 
points to help the novice in learning how to catch and cook the trout and 



75 




A DIG IKOUT. 



76 



salmon, or to bring down the deer and moose. The wise game-laws of the 
State of Maine are carefully enforced here, so that the wild denizens of the 
forest counties grow more numerous every year, and the Rangeley country 
remains a great game-preserve, visited during summer's open season by 
sportsmen from all over the Republic. The region covers an area of eighty 
square miles, at a height of 1,500 feet above the sea, and is diversified by 
tall mountains and ridges, silvery lakes and ponds, and a network of crystal- 
line trout-streams, winding through the ancient forests. 

From Farmington, the beautiful old capital of Franklin County, a 
narrow-gauge railroad runs up the Sandy-River valley to mountain-girt 

Phillips, whence a stage-ride 
of seventeen miles leads to 
Greenvale and Rangeley. 
A steamboat runs from 
Greenvale along Rangeley 
Lake to the hamlet of 
Rangeley and the Outlet. 
There are eight good trout- 
ponds within five miles of 
Rangeley, and ten miles 
ivirth is the lonely and beau- 
nlul Kennebago Lake. 
A ear the foot of Rangeley 
Lake stands the Mountain- 
View House, 1 ,700 feet 
above the sea, and looking 




BEMIS STREAM. 

WEST KENNEBAGO MT. 

RANGELEY LAKES. 




across the placid waters to the long ridge of Bald Mountain. A short and 
pleasant walk leads from the Outlet down to Indian Rock, the headquarters 
of the Oquossoc Angling Association, a wealthy company of Boston and 
New-York gentlemen, who have established here comfortable lodges and 
fish-hatcheries, and a fleet of many boats. This corporation is one of the 
chief agencies in stocking the lakes with young fish, and in enforcing the 
observance hereabouts of the game-laws of Maine. 

Another carry leads in little over a mile from the Outlet to Haines' 
Landing and the Mooselucmaguntic House, a famous place for large trout, 
and a great variety of game in the forest. Close to Lidian Rock, the beautiful 
Cupsuptic Lake opens away to the northward, environed by sandy beaches 



77 




78 

and l^roken by long piomnnforics and green islands. \>y ascending this 
bright forest-tarn and the inllowing stream for seventeen miles, we may reach 
the long eight-mile carry which leads across the hills to Parmachenee Lake, 
away up at the head of the Magalloway River. From Cu])suptic Lake, the 
Narrows, abounding in fish and bordered by camps and lodges, leads to 
Indian Rock and Lake Mooselucmaguntic, the central basin of the Rangeley 
country, with a length of eight miles and a width of two miles. A small 
steamboat makes dally trips down the lake, from Indian Rock to Haines' 




Landing, liugle Cove, l>emis 
Camp, and the Upper Dam, 
a pleasant voyage, past isl- 
ands large enough to have 
furnished vast rafts of lum- 
ber, and miniature archipel- 
agoes and tree-tufted rocks 
and islets. Noble mount- 
ain-views are afforded, — the Aziscoos and Boundary peaks on the north, Ikild 
Mountain on the east, and the Bema group on the south, with the far-awav 
White Mountains low down on the horizon. This is indeed the most pictur- 
esque and diversified of the lakes, and affords also the greatest advantage for 
the sportsman. From Allcrton Lodge, at Bugle Cove, the ascent of Bald 
Mountain is sometimes made, and from this lake-surrounded peak an inter- 
esting view is given over the wide Rangeley country. Bugle Cove also has a 
notable prospect of Mount Aziscoos, and of Elephant's Hump and the other 



79 

peaks of the Hema Range. iJema l!ay opens away toward the mountains, 
from llie lower part of the lake, and receives the outlet of the IJema Ponds. 
Here stands the woodland hostelry known as Camp Bcmis, and accommo- 
dating a goodly number of sportsmen. 

The outlet of Mooselucmaguntic is at the Upper Dam, a ponderous 
structure of timber and rocks, a third of a mile long, built in 1.S45-47. There 
is a hotel near by; and some of the best trout-tishing around the lakes may 
be enjoyed in the vicinity. 

A short carry leads from Trout Cove, on Mooselucmaguntic, to Echo 
Landing, on Mollychunkamunk Lake, somewhat smaller than its neighbor, 
and covering ten square miles, amid Trosach-likc scenery of thronging hills, 
overlooked by Aziscoos, Moose Mountain, and other high blue peaks. Its 
clear cold waters are the home of myriads of trout and land-locked salmon, 
affording satisfactory sport to the anglers whose camps and lodges nestle 




THE WHITE MOI'NTAINS, f'KOM UMBAGOG LAKE. 

along the picturesque shores. On one side a trail leads to "the paradise of 
deer and ducks," Metaluk Pond; and on the other is the outfall of the 
lovely and sequestered Richardson Ponds, within five miles of Mount 
Aziscoos. 

A singular two-mile corridor of water in the forest, rock-bound and leaf- 
strewn, joins Mollychunkamunk to its southern sister-lake, dainty Weloken- 
nebacook; and at its outlet a remarkable view is given of Mount Washington 
and its noble brethren. Soon afterward, Aziscoos and Observatory Peak 
come into sight in the opposite direction. 

The steamboat on LakeWelokennebacook runs down by the Middle Dam, 
and into the South Arm, hemmed about with rocky and wooded ridges. 
From the hotel at its head, stages traver.se a picturesque mountain region to 
Andover and Bryant's Pond, on the Grand Trunk Railway, thirty-five miles 
away. This is the usual route to the lower lakes of the Rangeley chain, 
being more direct than anv other, for iravellers coming from Portland wav. 



8o 



The Middle Dam, at the outlet of Welokennebacook, has a hotel and 
steamboat landing, whence a portage-road six miles long follows the course 
of Rapid River down to Lake Umbagog, the lowest and largest of the 
Rangeiey group. It covers an area of eighteen square miles, with many 

islands and projecting 
points, and views of 
the White Mountains, 
the Diamond Peaks, 
Aziscoos, and the high 
ranges toward Dix- 
ville Notch and along 
the Canadian border. 
The ports visited by 
the steamboat, after 
leaving the end of the 
carry from Middle 
Dam, are Upton, at 
the south end of the 
lake, whence stages 
run through the Graf- 
ton Notch to Bethel; 
and Errol Dam, well 
into the Androscoggin 




SCREW-AUGER FALLS, GRAFTON NOTCH. 



River, the outlet of Umbagog. From this point, highways lead up to Dix- 
ville Notch and Colebrook, on the Upper-Coos Railroad, and to Milan, close 
by the White Mountains. 



fwffiifmw^ 



8i 




IN DIXVILLE NOTCH. 



82 



CHAITKR XVII. 



DEAD RIVER AND LAKE MEGANTIC. 

KlNCl'lKLU AND EUSTIS. — CHAIN OF PONDS. — SPIUEIi LaKK. — LaKK 

Megantic. — Tim I'und. — Seven Ponds. 

TIIl'^. narrow-gauge railroad leading from Farmington, in Maine, to 
Phillips, connects at the village of Strong with another and similarly 
built line, which makes a long ascent, and crosses the shoulder of Mount 
Abraham at Salem, and ends at Kingfield. From this quiet hamlet of the 
wilderness a stage-route ascends the pleasant Carrabassett valley for twenty- 
eight miles, to Eustis, with its hotel, on the banks of Dead River, and in 
full sight of Mount Bigelow. There are a dozen ponds in this vicinity, with 
si)ortsmen's camps, and plenty of game and fish, the chief of them being the 
l>ig Spencer Lake, eight miles long, and the beautiful Round-Mountain 
Lake, eleven miles from Eustis. A buckboard road leads up the Dead- 
River valley, following the route of Gen. Benedict Arnold's famous march 
against Quebec, and in eleven and a half miles reaching the Chain of 
Pouds, with their sportsmen's camps and inexhaustible stores of trout. 
Farther on is Chain Lake, in Maine ; and two miles beyond the Canadian 
frontier lies the celebrated Spider Lake, the seat of the club-house of the 
Megantic Fish and Game Association. Lake Megantic is within less than a 
mile of Spider. 

The new road to Spider Lake leads from near Tim Pond. 

I>ake Megantic may be reached also by taking the Lowell System from 
Boston to Sherbrooke, in Canada, and thence by the Canadian Pacific 
Railway direct to the lake. A steamboat runs on Megantic; and from the 
little hamlet of Three Lakes a walk of half a mile leads to Spider Lake. 

Turning off from the Kingfield-Eustis road, at Stratton, twenty-lwo miles 
from Kingfield, and a little way beyond Dead River, a buckboard road leads 
in five miles to Smith Farm, on a plateau which commands Mount ISigelow, 
Saddleback, Mount Abraham, Mount Blue and many other unfamiliar 
northern peaks. Six miles farther on are the famous fishing-grounds of Tim 
Pond, 2,000 feet above the sea, and renowned for their voracious trout. 
Hereabouts, also, dwell moose and deer, hares and foxes, and even the 
beaver, now so nearly extinct in New England. There are several good 
camps here ; and others may be found at Seven Ponds, four hours' journey 
farther into the forest. From this point the river may be descended (with a 
four-mile carry) to Kennebago Lake, whence the route is plain to Rangeley 
or Mooselucmaguntic. 



CIIAITKR XVIII. 



SEBAGO LAKE. 

Views of the Mountains. — Andrew and IIawlhorne. — The -Sonoo 
River. — The Bay ok Naples. — Long Pond. — Bridcjton. — Water- 
ford. — Harrison. 

" Around Sebago's lonely lake 
There lingers not a breeze to break 
The mirror which its waters make. 

" The solemn pines along its shore. 
The fiis which hang its gray rocks o'er. 
Are p.ainlcd on its glassy floor." 

— Whittier. 

DOWN within sixteen miles of Portland, on the route to North Conway, 
the singularly clear and pure waters of Sebago Lake cover nearly a 
hundred square miles, with a depth in places exceeding 400 feet. It forms 
a broad unbroken expanse, of fine proportions, the few islands loeing near 
the shores. The immediate vicinity of the lake is rather devoid of pictur- 
esque features, but grand views of the White Mountains are afforded in the 
north-west, — the red peaks of Chocorua and Moat, the dark domes of 
Passaconaway and Carrigain, and the remoter Presidential line,' fully forty 
miles away. On one side of the lake is the ancient town of Windham, still 
cherishing the birthplace of John A. Andrew, the war governor of Massa- 
chusetts; and just beyond, at the head of the long Raymond Cape, is the 
obscure rural neighborhood where dwelt Nathaniel Hawthorne during 
several of the years of his youth. Near the Notch, a picturcs(|ue strait 
between the outer point of Raymond Cape and Frye's Island, they point 
out a cavern opening on the water, into which the lad used to row his boat, 
and meditate in loneliness. 

The steamboat leaves the Scbago-Lake railway station daily, running 
northward through a chain of lakes and rivers for over thirty miles. The 
interest of the voyage consists largely in its diversity of scenery, the fine 
views of far-away mountains, and the valuable biographical associations of 
the region. 

At the head of Sebago Lake, the steamer passes between long lines of 
brushwood jetties, and enters the famous Songo River, a stream six miles 
long, so narrow and still that the overhanging forests cover its bosom with 
their reflections, and so strangely devious that the boat makes nearly thirty 
turns within the two leagues. At one point she enters a lock, and is raised 
to the higher level of the lakes above. 



84 

" Nowhere such a devious stream, 
Sa/e in fancy or in dream, 
Winding slow through bush and brake. 
Links together lake and lake. 

" Walled with woods or sandy shelf, 
Ever doubling on itself. 
Flows the stream, so still and slow, 
That it hardly seems to flow." 

— Longfellow's Songo Rhier. 

A mile beyond the lock the little steamer enters a two-mile pond, 
known as the Bay of Naples, and calls at the uneventful hamlet of Naples. 
Here we enter the river-like expanse of Long Pond, thirteen miles long and 
less than a mile and a half wide, its shores lined with farms, and overlooked 
by the august shapes of distant mountains, the crown of New England. 
Stages run from Bridgton Landing in a few minutes to the prosperous village 
of Bridgton, the terminus of a narrow-gauge railroad running to the Maine- 
Central route between Portland and North Conway. A short distance to the 
northward is the beautiful Highland Lake, gemmed by wooded islets, and 
overhung by green highlands. 

The ne.xt port is North Bridgton, a lovely lakeside hamlet under the 
shadows of venerable trees, and much frequented by summer-guests. Five 
miles to the north, amid rugged mountains and sunny lakelets, is Waterford, 
famous as the birthplace of " Artemus Ward," the great American humorist 
of an earlier generation. Several other inen of national fame originated in 
this secluded mountain-town. 

The last port on the lake is Harrison, a pleasant village at the outlet of 
Anonymous Pond. On the noble-viewing hill back of this fresh-water 
harbor flows the Summit Mineral Spring, held in high repute for its medici- 
nal virtues. 

The fishing in the Sebago waters consists of I:)lack bass, land-locked 
salmon, pickerel, white perch, and trout. The favorite rendezvous for 
anglers is at Ingalls's Grove, on Long Pond. 

A brief description of the notable lakes of Maine would fill a volume far 
too ponderous for our present purpose. We must, therefore, pass by I^ake 
Maranacook, in Winthrop, the most famous picnic-ground in the State, 
winding for eight miles among the hills and groves, and dotted with pretty 
islets; the great ponds of Belgrade, with their miniature archipelagoes, and 
myriads of bass and perch ; Cobbossee Contee Pond, near Gardiner, stretch- 
ing for nine miles between grassy hills and groves of cedar and red oak, and 
populous with black bass and white perch ; Androscoggin Pond, in Leeds, 
flowing for nearly two leagues through a lovely rural region frequented by 
summer-boarders; Weld Pond, not far from Wilton, overlooked by Mount 
Blue, and famous for its fisheries; Lake Auburn, three miles from the city 
of Auburn, with its well-known mineral spring and summer-hotel j and scores 
of others. 



85 



CHAPTER XIX. 



MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

The Wilderness Sea. — Its Mountain- Walls. — The Voyage by 
Steamboat. — Kineo. — A Line of Summer-Hotels. 



MOOSEHEAD is the queen of the Maine lakes, far away in the north- 
ern wilderness, a thousand feet above the sea, and presenting a rare 
combination of mountain and crag, silent primeval forests, and enchanted 
islands, and great sunlit reaches of blue water, with many a lovely siiver- 

sanded cove and tranquil bay. The grand 

scale on which Mother Nature worked while 
building the State of Maine is exemplified in 
this bright inland sea, which has a length of 




tliirty-eight miles, and an ex- 
treme breadth of fourteen 
miles. It is the great fish- 
pond of the country, with 
millions of river and lake 
trout, whitefish, and other 
gamey denizens of the waters. Over the rough seas that the south-east gales 
often pile up, the Indian canoes float like gulls, quartering along the white- 
crested waves with inimitable grace and buoyancy. 

The four hundred miles of shore-lint encircling Moosehead contain a 



86 

great variety of scenery, lines of shaggy hills, deep and sheltered bays, and 
the estuaries of well-known fishing-streams. The perfumes of pine and spruce 
fill the pure highland air, untainted by the dead exhalations of towns, and 
prepare a tonic which it is delightful to breathe. This is the chief of all the 
myriad lakes of Maine ; and every season thousands of vacation-tourists seek 
its refreshing and invigorating surroundings. 

The favorite excursion is to the top of Mount Kineo, a steep scramble, 
by a well-marked path leading through fragrant woodlands, and over stretches 
of soft moss and iron-like ledges. From the summit \vc gain a bird's-eye view 
of the great lake with its shining northern bay, and its many shadowy mount- 
ains, and the dim. distant peak of Katahdin. 

Trusty guides may be found at the Kineo, by whose aid many pleasant 
excursions are enjoyed over the surrounding waters, and to the b.aunts of fish 




MOUNT KINF, % MUOSKIl ICAD I.AKK 



among the Moody Islands and over by Brassua, and Tomhcgan, and Socatcan. 
Or the bolder adventurer may ascend to the North-East Carry, whence a 
road leads in two miles to the West Branch of the Penobscot. (When 
James Russell Lowell carried his baggage over this portage he estimated the 
distance at 18,674! miles.) Thence the canoes descend the West IJranch of 
the Penobscot for eighteen miles to Lake Chesuncook, eighteen miles long, 
and enwrapped in the great northern wilderness. The West Branch flows 
down thence for ninety miles to Mattawamkeag, on the Maine Central Rail- 
road; and from Chesuncook the sturdy woodsman may visit Chamberlain 
Lake, and Caucomgomoc, and Caribou Lake, and Kipogenus, and many 
another silent tarn among the houseless woods. 

'I"hc graceful .Squaw Mountains, the cone-like peaks of the Spencer range, 




i^ ii 



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87 

and the Lily-Bay group, with scores of great green hills, and the singularly 
piecipitous Mount Kiueo, add an element of grandeur to the scenery, which 
is enhanced by views of the far-away Mount Katahdin, alone in the eastern 
wilderness. Civilization has as yet made but few advances into this wild 
land, and the shores are almost entirely in their original and primeval 
solitude. 

It is a pleasant voyage by steamboat from the southern end of the lake 
to Kinco, a distance of twenty miles. From abreast of Burnt-Jacket Cliff, 
the great Squaw Mountain comes into sight, on the west, and White Cap 

jicers over the east- 
ern woods. Then 
the course lies be- 
tween the large 
Deer and Sugar 
Islands, and so 



*''*'%«!Kj 




■a 



/ 



cmcr!;,es 

on the ■'•'c 

broadest part '^ ., ^v 

of the lake, ^''>^. 

stretching from Spen- '^'-^-.y / 

cer Bay to the Kennebec '■ , \^ / 

Dam, at the outlet. Over ''^'i/^x 
the bay loom the dark Spencer '\ 
Mountains, sometimes ascended by 

adventurous woodsmen; and a glimpse of "'/j\ / 

blue Katalulin is gained, in the remote dis- 
tance. Then bold Kineo appears, far up alonj^ 
the shining waters ; and in a short time the hapjiy inland voyage is ended, 
and we reach the comfortable and fashionable hotel, tiie summer-capital of 
this vast natural i)ark. 



There are many other interesting lakes in this northern region, — Sebec, 
with its four leagues of bright waters; C)naway, abounding in fish; Hebron, 
near the great slate-quarries of Monson ; and scores of others, each with its 
summer-quota of visitors. The best of guides and equipments may be found 



at Greenville, Kineo, Sebec, and other outposts of civilization on the edge oif 
the immense northern wilderness. 

There are summer-hotels at Greenville, near the southern end of the lake ; 
at West Cove, near by> where the Canadian Pacific Railway intersects the 
Bangor & Piscataquis Railroad ; at the Outlet, where the Kennebec flows 
away to the south-west ; on Deer Island ; at North-East Carry ; at the foot of 
Mount Kineo ; and up in Lily Bay. The score of trout-]Donds around Green- 
ville, the ascent of Squaw Mountain and others of the lakeland peaks, the 
canoe-voyage up forest-bound Moose River, the quiet old forest-inn at Roach 
Pond, the lovely Brassua Lake, the water-lilies and sandy beaches of Lobster 
Lake, the manifold attractions of Matangomook, Aboljackarmegas, Neso- 
wadnehunk, Seboomook, AUagash, Pongokwahemook, and hundreds of other 



^"1 




KATAHDIN, FROM NORTH UAY (mOOSEHEAD). 



famous places for camping and fishing and hunting, are minutely described 
and illustrated in Hubbard's capital "Guide to Moosehead Lake and North- 
ern Maine," and the same scholarly writer's "Woods and I-akes of Maine," 
which may be procured in Boston. 

Moosehead Lake is reached by the Pullman express from lioston to 
Bangor, whence the Bangor & Piscataquis Railroad runs to the lake. 



CHAPTER XX. 



FRONTIER FISHING. 

The MiRAMicHi and Kestigouche. — The St. John River. — The 
South-west Miramichi. — The Tokique River. — Grand Falls. — 
Edmundston. — The Fish-River Lakes. — Temixouata Lake. — 
Cabano Lake. — The Aroostook Country. 

THE railway route running eastward from Bangor gives access to a region 
which is rich in opportunities for the hunter and fisherman. From 
Olamon, the lovely Nicatous Lake is reached; from Enfield, you go in to 
Coldstream Pond; Winn is the station for Duck Lake; and from Mattawam- 
keag stages run to many places in north-eastern Maine. Vanceboro' is the 
point of departure for the trout-fishing on the St. Croix and the Chiputneti- 
cook Lakes. Around to the southward, by McAdam Junction and Calais, is 
the great network of the Schoodic Lakes ; and from St. Andrews opens the 
famous fishing-region of Lake Uto]>ia and the connected waters. From St. 
John, a short run by steamer across the Bay of Fundy leads to Digby and 
Annapolis, and the entrances to the great interior wilderness of Nova Scotia, 
a land of beautiful lakes and forests and highlands, abounding in all kinds of 
game and fish. Northward from St. John, daily steamboats ascend the 
pleasant St. John River in seven hours to Fredericton, the "Celestial City," 
the capital of New Brunswick, and the seat of its University and Anglican 
Cathedral. The railway running thence to Chatham gives access to the 
famous salmon-fishing streams of the Miramichi, especially in the vicinity of 
Boiestown. The famous sea-trout of Tabusintac may be sought from New- 
castle. The Intercolonial Railway runs north to Bathurst, another favorite 
centre for sportsmen, near the Tete-a-Gauche and Nepisiguit Rivers and 
other capital places for salmon-fishing. The Caraquet Railway runs east- 
ward to Caraquet and Shippegan, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, through a 
])icturesque Acadian country, abounding in fish and game. 

Still northward, on the Intercolonial line, and we come to the seaport of 
Dalhousie, where the Restigouche River enters the Bay of Chaleur. This is 
beyond question one of the finest salmon streams in the world, and hundreds 
of scientific anglers follow its shining course every season. 

The entire frontier of New Brunswick is lined with capital fishing-regions, 
which may be reached by the Boston & Maine and Maine Central Railroads 
to McAdam Junction, and thence by the New-Brunswick Railway, north or 
south. 

The River St. John, flowing for four hundred and fifty miles in Maine 
and New Brunswick, illustrates the development of Canadian civilization, 



90 

from the Indian wigwams and canoes on its upper waters to the quaint 
Acadian hamlets of tho Madavvaska region, the scattered farms of the English 
pioneers farther down, and the prosperous and modern commercial city at 
the mouth, with its great shipping. 

The celebrated fishing-grounds of the South-west Miramichi are reached 
from Kent station, by a good road leading in eight miles to Glassville, and 
seven miles farther to Foreston, and nine miles (by carriage or canoe) to 
McEwan's, at the Forks, where guides and boats are found. There are 
many salmon and trout hereabouts, with teai and black duck around the 
lakes, and partridges and caribou in the woods. From the Forks, the stream 




TOBIQUE NARROWS. 

may be descended for sixty-eight miles to Boiestown, on the Northern & 
Western Railway. 

The Tobique River is the most picturesque stream in this region, with 
its red cliffs and far-away blue mountain-walls. It abounds in trout, tuladi, 
salmon, and other gamey and valiant fish. The village of Andovcr is on the 
St. John, and the New-Rrunswick Railway; and two miles above is an ancient 
Catholic colony of two hundred Milicete Indians, where the best guides and 
canoes arc obtained for the ascent of the Tobique, through the Narrows, 
between rocky cliffs; to the Red Rapids, twelve miles up; and the Forks, 
sixty miles up. This is in the heart of the wilderness, inhabited only by 
moose and bears. Two days' navigation above is Nictaux Lake, iml)ed(led 



91 




92 

in spruce and cedar woods, and overlooked by the high Nictaux Mountain. 
A three-mile carry leads to Nepisiguit Lake, whence we may descend the 
Nepisiguit River to the Bay of Chaleur. The Campbell River may be 
ascended from the Forks to Tobique Lake, four miles long, whence a two- 
mile carry leads to Long Lake, eight miles, and a nine-mile portage goes 
thence to the upper waters of the South-west Miramichi. 




;anu kalls, n.b. 



At Grand Falls, close to the village and station of the same name, the 
St. John River makes a noble plunge of seventy-five feet, with a current three 
hundred feet wide, and thunders down between black and spray-wet cliffs 
into a great whirlpool. Around and below this point the guests of the sum- 
mer-hotel in the village visit the Wells, Pulpit Rock, the Coffee Mill, the 
Cave, and other interesting places, bordered by the swirling expanses of white 
water. In this vicinity is some of the finest scenery in Canada. 



97, 

Edmundston, on the New-Brunswick Railway and the St. John River, is 
a capital point of departure for fishermen, being handy to the famous Green 
River, the Squatook Lakes, the Fish-River Lakes, and other well-known 
fishing-grounds. It is a plain little village, near the centre of the extensive 
Acadian and Catholic settlements on the Upper St. John, in a country of 
considerable natural beauty. 

The Eagle and Fish-River Lakes afford very good sport to the fisherman. 
They are reached by rail to Edmundston, whence a road leads in seven 
miles to Frenchville, on the Maine side of the St. John River. A five-mile 
road runs thence to Long Lake, whence the canoeman can traverse a chain 
of lonely lakes, with uninhabited shores, for a day and a half's journey. 
These include Mud, Cross, Square, Eagle, and Neddeau Lakes, all of them 
abounding in large trout and tuladi, especially near the mouths of the cold 
inflowing brooks and in the thoroughfares joining the lakes. From Ned- 
deau, the canoe descends Fish River to the old border stronghold of Fort 
Kent, and down the St. John to Edmundston. The trolling in the Fish- 
River Lakes is full of excitement, and sixteen-pound tuladi have been caught. 
Occasionally, a bear or caribou looks out from the woods. The best time 
for fishing here is from mid-June to late summer. Tea days makes a good 
trip. Xavier Burgoin, Frenchville, Madawaska, Me., furnishes canoes and 
guides. 

Temiscouata Lake is a beautiful highland loch, six hundred feet above 
the sea, and winding for twenty-seven miles among the highlands, with deep 
water, abounding in salmon-trout and perch, and numerous influent streams 
and dependent lakes, where good trout-fishing is found. The Madawaska 
River can be ascended by steam-launch from Edmundston to the head of the 
lake, a distance of nearly fifty miles. The Temiscouata Railway follows the 
lake-shore its entire length, on the way from Edmundston to Riviere du 
Loup. Many years ago, this sequestered water was guarded by a garrison 
of redcoats, in Fort Ingalls, one of the line of fortresses joining Quebec and 
Ilalifa.x. But the jolly grenadiers have departed, many years ago; and near 
the site of their old camp-ground is the pleasant French hamlet of Notre 
Dame du Lac, whose angelus bells sound sweetly over Temiscouata every 
evening. One of the best excursions in the neighborhood is along the Squa- 
took lakes. 

Cabano Lake is twenty-seven miles froni Edmundston, fifteen by road up 
the St. John, four up Caron-Brook Valley, four across Baker Lake, and four 
by portage. It is a beautiful sheet of water, fourteen miles long, without a 
single house or clearing, and bordered by heavy hardwood forests and 
high hills. The trout and tuladi (salmon-trout) of these lakes are famous for 
their number and size, and afford excellent sport. The outlet of Cabano 
runs down to Lake Temiscouata in twenty miles, with two or three short 
carries. A three-mile portage leads from Cabano to the St. Francis River, 
which may be descended (through I'ean Lake and Glazier Lake) in twenty- 
five miles to the St. John, thirty-five liiiles above Edmundston, and all plain 
sailing. 

The celebrated Aroostook Country, one of the best farming-regions of 



94 



New England, is entered by the New-Brunswick Railway, Iloulton, its shire- 
town, being reached by an eight-mile branch from Debcc Junction, and 
Caribou and I'resque Isle being on another branch, leading westward from J 
Aroostook. ^ 



Amid the glens of the Appalachian highlands, beginning away down in 
the Gulf States, overspreading Northern New England, and sinking down 
into the highlands about the Gulf of St. Lawrence, there are scores of beau- 
tiful lakes, whose titles even cannot be mentioned here. Merry-meeting, 
Massabesic, Caspian, Ossipee, Massawippi, Dunmore, Province, Bomaseen, 
Newichawannock, — their names are rich in aboriginal melody or legendary 
association, and bear pleasant suggestions to the thousands who frequent 
their shores, in the restful summer-time. In these quiet landscapes, rich in 
immeasurable verdure, and lighted by the blue and silver of the highland 
waters, there is a peculiar restfulness, very grateful to the weary citizen, and 
not without charm even for the habitual idler. The telephone and fire-alarm 
and ticker and ledger, far away in the sun-scorched towns, are forgotten, and 
the sights and sounds of rural life happily replace them. And so, drifting 
down sylvan streams and unknown rivers, or dreaming by the side of lapsing 
ripples, we may enter the confines of a new life, and store up reserves of 
strength for the coming days. 

Bring us the airs of hills and forests, 

The sweet aroma of birch and pine. 
Give us a waft of the north wind, laden 

With sweet-brier odors and breath of kine ! 

Lead us away in shadow and sunshine, 

Slaves of fancy, through all thy miles. 
The winding ways of Pemigewasset, 

And Winnipesaukee's hundred isles. — VVhittiek. 



95 



INDEX. 





I'AGE 




rAGii 




PAGE 


Allan Estate .... 


. 64 


Camp Beniis .... 


• 79 


Fort Kent .... 


• • 93 


Allerton Lodge . . . 


• 78 


Camp Caribou . . . 


• 72 


Fort Point . . . 


. . 20 


Alma Island .... 


. 68 


Camp Chocorua . . 


• 39 


Franklin .... 


• 49. 52 


Alton Pay . . . . ' 


0, 13 


Canterbury .... 


• 14 


Fredericton . . . 


. . 89 


Andovcr . . . • 13, t 


o> 79 


Caraquet 


. 89 


Gardiner .... 


. . 84 


Androscoggin Lake 


. 84 


Caribou 


• 94 


Gardner's Lland 


. . 46 


Androscoggin River . 


. 80 


Caribou Lake . . . 


. 86 


Garnet Hill . . . 


. . 28 


Annanance, Mount 


. 56 


Carmel, Mount . . . 


■ 73 


George's Mills . . 


. . 46 


Aroostook Country 


• 93 


Carrabassett valley 


. 82 


CJeorgeville . . 


. . 65 


Asliuapmouchcjuan River 


, 67 


Caucomgomoc Lake . 


. 86 


Gibraltar Point . . 


. . 6s 


As(iuani Lake . . . 


• 36 


Centre Harbor . . 28, 3 


0, 39 


Governor's Island . 


• ■ 32 


Auburn, Lake . . . 


. 84 


Chain Lakes .... 


. 82 


Grafton Notch . . 


. . 80 


Ausable Chasm . . . 


■ 55 


Chamberlain, Lake 


. 86 


Grand Falls . . . 


• ■ 91 


Aziscoos Falls . . . 


• 7' 


Champlain, Lake . . 


• 54 


Great Island . . . 


. . 46 


P.ald Mountain . . . 


. 78 


Chatham 


. 89 


Green's Pasin . . 


. . 30 


r>asin Harbor . . . 


• 54 


Chesuncook, Lake . . 


. 86 


Green vale . . . 


. . 76 


I'ay of Chaleur . . . i 


9,9' 


Chicoutimi .... 


• 67 


Greenville . . . 


. . 88 


ISay-View Park . . . 


• 64 


Chiputneticook Lakes 


. 89 


Haines' Landing 


• 76,78 


Peach Hdl .... 


. 40 


Chiron Springs . . . 


• 51 


Harrison .... 


. . 84 


P.ear Lsland .... 


. 26 


Cobbossee Contee Pond 


84 


Hawk's Nest . . 


. . 26 


Pear Mountain . . . 


■ 63 


Concord 


- 14 


Hebron .... 


• • S3 


Peaver Islands . . . 


. 26 


Connecticut Lakes . . 6 


9> 73 


Hero Islands . . . 


• 54, 55 


Pelgrade 


• 84 


Coon Pond .... 


66 


Highland Lake . . 


. . 84 


Pelknap, Mount 


■ 34 


Copple Crown . . . 


22 


Hookset .... 


• 14 


Pcma Pay .... 


• 79 


Cow Island .... 


24 


Hor, Mount . . . 


. . 56 


Perlin Mills .... 


• 70 


Crown Point .... 


54 


Houlton .... 


• • 94 


P.ethel 


. 80 


Crystal Lake . . . 


51 


Indian Point . . . 


. . 63 


liigelow, Mount . . 


82 


Cupsuptic Lake . . 


76 


Indian Rock . . . 


■ 76 


Pirch Island .... 


26 


Dalhousie 


8y 


Ingalls's Grove . . 


. 84 


Plack-Cat Island . . 


26 


De.ad River .... 


82 


Jerusalem Spring . 


• 51 


P.lackey's Cove ... 3 


9.28 


Diamond Island . . 


24 


Jolly Island . . . 


. 26 


I'llodgett's Landing 


46 


Dixville Notch . . . 


80 


Keene 


■ 41 


Poiestown .... 


90 


Domes, The .... 


39 


Kennebago Lake 


76,82 


Pohon Springs . . . 


66 


Dover, 


13 


Kent 


. 90 


I'lOsc-l'iuck Mountain . 


73 


Eagle Lakes .... 


93 


Kmeo 


86,87 


Pradford 


•3 


Eastern Townships . 6 


3,65 


KingficKi .... 


. 82 


Prattleburough . . . 


41 


East Pond .... 


51 


Knowlton's Landing 


65,66 


Pridgewater .... 


53 


Echo Landing . . . 


79 


Kunnaway . . . 


. 26 


Pridglon 


84 


Edmundston .... 


93 


Laconia .... 


35, '4 


Pristol 


52 


Edouard, Lake . . . 


68 


Lake View . . . 


• 45 


Proads, The .... 


24 


Endicott Rock . . . 


34 


Lake Village ... 35 


> 34. 14 


Prome Lake .... 


66 


Enfield 


51 


Lawrence 


■ '3 


I!rt)mpton Lake . . . 


66 


Errol Dam .... 8 


D, 70 


Leeds 


. 84 


Br>'ant's Pond . . . 


79 


Karmington . . . 76, i 


},82 


Liberty Island . . . 


. 46 


Bugle Cove .... 


78 


Fish- River Lakes . . . 


93 


Little Squani Lake . . 


. 40 


Purlington .... 5 


4. 55 


Fitch Bay 6 


3, 64 


Long Bay . . . . 


• 14 


Cabano Lake . . . . 


93 


Forties, The 


26 


Long Island . . . . 


26, 64 


Camp Asquam . . . . 


.39 


Fort Ingalls 


93 


Lower Mettaluk Pond 


• 71 



96 



ake 



Magalloway River 
Magog .... 
Manchester . . 
Maquam Bay 
Maranacook, Lake 
Mascoma Lake . 
Mattawamkeag . 
McAdam Junction 
Megantic, Lake 
Melvin Village . 
Memphremagog, L 
Meredith . . . 
Meriimac River 
Metaluk Pond . 
Middle Dam . . 
Milan .... 
Milton .... 
Minnesquam Lake 
Miramichi . . 
Mistassini River 
MoUychunkamunk 
Molson's Island . 
Moody Islands . 
Moosehead Lake 
Moosekicniaguntic La 
Moultonborough Bay 
Nabby's Island 
Naples . . . 
Narrows, The 
Nashua . . 
Neddeau Lake 
Nepisiguit River 
Newark . . 
Newbury . . 
Newbury port 
Newfound Lake 
Newport . . 
Nicatous Lake 
Nictaux Lake 
North Bridgton 
North-east Carry 
Notre Dame dii Lac 
Nova Scotia . . 
Olamon . . . 
Onaway Lake 
Orford, Mount . 
Ossipee Mountains 
Owl's Head . . 
Parmachenee Lake 
Paiigus, Lake 
Peaked Hill . . 
Peribonca River 
Phillips . . . 
Pickerel Point . 
Pine Cliff . . . 



30 
59 
34 
13 
79 
79, 80 
80 

14 

40 



87 
66 
30 
63, 60 
70, 78 
14. 34 
40. 53 
• 67 
. 76 
■ 59 
. 46 



Plattsburg 
Pointe Bleue 
Port Kent . 
Poverty Hill 
Presque Isle 
Prospect Hill 
Prospect, Mount 
Province Island . 
Pulpit Rock . . 
Quebec . . . 
Rangeley Lakes 
Rapid River . . 
Rattlesnake Island 
Raymond Cape . 
Red Hill . . . 
Red Rapids . . 
Restigouche River 
Richardson Ponds 
Richelieu River 
Ripogenus 
Roach Pond . . 
Roberval . . . 
Rochester . . . 
Rock Point . . 
Round Island 
Saguenay River 
St. Albans Bay . 
St. Francis Lake 
St. Gedeon . . 
St. Jerome . . 
St. John . . . 
St. John, Lake . 
St. Prime . . . 
Salem .... 
Schoodic Lakes . 
Sebago Lake . 
Sebec Lake . . 
Sergeant's Bay . 
Seven Ponds . . 
Shakers . . . 
Shaw, Mount 
Shelburne Point 
Shepard Hill . . 
Sherbrooke . . 
Shippegan . . 
Skinner's Island 
Smith Farm . . 
Songo River . . 
South-west Miramichi 
Spencer Mountains 
Spider Lake . 
Split Rock 
Spofford, Lake 
Squam Lake . 
Squaw Cove . 



PAGE 

55 
67 

55 
45 
94 
44, 59 
69 
63 
57 
67 
74 



24 

33 
30, 28 
90 



64 



63, 64 
26 



PAGE 

Squaw Mountains 
Stanstead . . . 
Steamboat Island 
Stratton 
Strong . . 
Sugar Loaf 
Sugar-Loaf Pond 
Sugar River 
Summit Spring 
Sunapee Harbor 
Sunapee Lake 
Sunset HUl . 
Sunset Peak . 
Tabusintac 
Temiscouata Lake 
Ticonderoga . . 
Tilton .... 
Tim Pond . . . 
Tobique . . . 
Trout Cove . . 
Tuftonborough Bay 
Tug, Mount . . 
Tumbledown Dick 
Twin Sisters . 
Umbagog, Lake 
Union .... 
Union Bridge 
University Hill . 
Upper Dam . . 
Upton .... 
Utopia Lake . . 
Valcour Island . 
Waterford . . . 
Waukawan, Lake 
Webster Lake . 
Weirs .... 
Weld .... 
Welokennebacook, 
Wentworth, Lake 
West Burke . . 
Westmore . 
West Stewartstown 
White-Oak Pond 
Whittier Pines . 
Willoughby Lake 
Wilton .... 
Windham . 
Winnecoette Hill 
Winnipesaukce, Lake 

16, 13, 14 
Winnisquam, Lake . 35, 14 

Winthrop 84 

Wolfeborough . . 22, 13, 14 



Lake 



53 
66 
46 
84 
46 
42 

:38 
46 
89 
93 
55 

. 35 
82 
90 
79 
24 
51 
24 
63 

- 70 
14 
18 

54 
79 

























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